Stellar Treks - Bridge Turbolift / Main Elevator

This is the next installment of a complete Bridge For Starship Operations in the Playmates 4.5" figure world. This piece, along with the Main Viewscreen and 14 more Bridge Communication Console segments constitute a full Bridge Layout for a Constellation Class Starship. Yes, that's a lot pf printing, and it 600mm+ wide, but it may be worth it for you.

This 4 piece design attaches, magnetically, to the Bridge Communication Console (sold seperately)- ( https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/stellar-treks-bridge-communication-console ) Using 2) 10x3mm neodymium magnets per side, you can connect this Turbolift to a set of the other consoles in the Stellar Tracks series to make a complete Bridge Layout (see pics).

Magnet holes are pretty obvious on the Pillar sides, and there's a small hole adjacent to the magnet hole to allow you to remove a magnet if you insert it the wrong way before your glue dries. I suggest you test your magnets and mark one side on all of them before you start installing them to make sure they have the correct orientation. Otherwise, they may repel when you try to snap them together.

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Included parts:
Turbolift Body
Turbolift Floor
Pillar - LEFT
Pillar - RIGHT
Pillar Caps and Grate
Railing 1
Railing 2
Turbolift Actuator
Window 1
Window 2
Chase Connector
Panel 1 - Ship Status
Panel 2 - Plaque
Panel 3 - Red Alert
Panel 4 - Intercom
Turbolift Dome
Turbolift Dome Cover

Turbolift Door Assembly:
Door Box - BOTTOM
Door Box - TOP
Door Panel - LEFT
Door Panel - RIGHT
Door Pin - BOTTOM
Door Pin - TOP
Spring - LEFT
Spring - RIGHT
Door Level - LEFT
Door Lever - RIGHT
Spring Blank (for use without spring door action)

Basic Door Box Assembly:
Basic Door - LEFT
Basic Door - RIGHT
Basic Door Box - BOTTOM
Basic Door Box - TOP

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The entire assembly is chased and has ample room for lights in the Turbolift windows and the Side Pillar Panels. The Turbolift Dome has a base that fits onto 4 small posts and is easily removable. The lid is designed to accommodate a popular size puck light 30mm x 21mm.

Assembly of the main unit is pretty straightforward using these pictures as a guide. Turbolift floor sits underneath the body. Use a couple dabs of glue here. It has a slight texture to it to be visually interesting. If you don't like it, turn it upside down and your lift will have a plain, flat surface. The Turbolift Body connects through the doorbox and to the Pillars with the Chase Connectors. I recommend gluing then to the Turbolift Body first, letting them dry, then attaching the doors and then the Side Pillars. Of course, don't forget to paint and assemble all the accessories before assembling.

3D printing settings:
I used 0.20 -0.12 layer heights and a 3mm brim around all parts to keep them from lifting. My printers are a P1P and P1S and my tolerances for tight fitting parts are 0.20mm

The side Pillars and Turbolift body are best printed standing up with small supports underneath the window openings, other supports aren't necessary. I used 0.20 layer height and blocked out any supports through the tunnels - they aren't necessary.

The DoorBox is the trickiest part to print. You really need an accurate printer to get the door actuators to work properly. Use a 0.12 layer height minimum. Sanding and trimming may be necessary to get the doors to slide smoothly. I also use a No. 2 pencil to lube the tracks and pin traces to get them to slide smoothly and spring back properly. If you have a printer that's not accurate enough to print these small parts properly, I've also included a Basic Door Box without the mechanism to open and close the doors with pull-tabs instead of a spring loaded lever as shown in the short video.

The mechanical DoorBox has actuating levers and springs that attach to the doors and back of the box with 2-piece pins. The levers push down (see video) and the springs bring the doors back to their original closed position. If you don't want the spring action, use the dummy "Spring Blank" instead of the spring. The doors will open and stay open when you depress the levers, then close when you lift the levers back.

As always, criticism and recommendations are welcome - don't hesitate to contact me if you want to see something added, adjusted, redesigned, or help with printer settings. I'm always open to suggestions that will improve the design, make it easier to print, or just look better. This design is subject to change over time to be more printer or assembly friendly.
Yes, I know these aren't 100% screen accurate. they are meant to be easy to print, not too big, and made for playing and display with your playmates figures. It's not about accuracy to me, it's about fun.

Thanks for purchasing and reading this in it's entirety!