X1C Riser With Switched LED Light

This low-profile riser provides lighting for the X1C enclosure and raises the glass cover by about 16 mm. The extra height reduces filament retraction errors caused by the PTFE tube’s tight curvature below the glass. There is also less rubbing of the tube on the glass, reducing wear of the tube’s surface.

Compared to the many available riser designs, here are features of this design:

• Optional push-on, push-off light switch on front of the riser
• Incorporation of foam sealing tape between riser and glass top, just like the X1C
• Reversible design allows user to choose which side the switch and power cable holes are placed
• Holes for switch and power cable may be omitted
• Visually blends in with the printer

Non-Printed Materials  (All products shown or mentioned are items that I actually use and have found to work well. I have no relationship with any product supplier.)

• 12V LED strip — Amazon
• 3M VHB double-sided tape, 10 mm wide — Amazon
• EVA self-adhesive weather strip, 20 mm wide, 2 mm thick — Amazon
• Parts for front push-on, push-off switch
  • Power switch breakout board — Adafruit or DigiKey
  • Tactile momentary pushbutton switch — DigiKey
  • S-video cable — Amazon
  • Mini-DIN-4 jack — DigiKey
  • Barrel power jack, 5.5 x 2.1 mm — DigiKey
  • 12V power adapter, 5.5 mm OD, 2.1 mm ID — DigiKey
  • (4) #4 or M3 self-tapping sheet metal screw, 3/8" or 10 mm (or ¼" or 8 mm)) length — Bolt Depot or Amazon
  • (2) M2 self-tapping sheet metal screw, 5 mm length — Amazon

Print profiles.  For the riser sections, use 30% infill for a little extra strength and enable support for the switch and power cable holes. For the optional power control box, enable support for the lid only.

Filament selection.  I printed the riser sections with PETG-CF. PETG should also work. I did not consider PLA for the riser because I was concerned about heat resistance. However, the power control box may be printed with PLA.

Hole positions for switch and cable.  The default positions of the switch and power cable are on the right side. If you prefer the left side, mirror the front and/or back sections along the X axis in the slicer software. If you don’t need the holes, optional sections without holes are included in the profile.

Parts substitutions.  Parts from DigiKey can be found more inexpensively on Amazon, but their quality may be lower. For a less fancy build, the Mini-DIN-4 and barrel connectors could be omitted and parts wired directly together. If the push-on, push-off switch is omitted, it would be better to use LED strips that include a cord switch (Amazon).

Control Circuit

Assembly Tips