AMS Flipper - better access to your P1S/X1/P2S

This is the AMS Flipper, with it you can flip the AMS up to get better access to the top of your P1S or X1 and P2S.

I made this AMS flipper because I got tired of having to remove the AMS every time I needed access to the top of my printer, to clear stuck filament, or service it. With the AMS Flipper the AMS is secured to the frame of the printer and can be flipped up and rest at an angle. 

 

The AMS flipper blocks the external spool mount right now, so I made an additional side spool holder, that you can find here:
I have Published V1.4 now, which has some general fitment improvements, as well as tested and refined AMS-2-PRO brackets, that should fit reliably now. 
The V1.4 update also expands the rear brackets for riser with versions up to 70mm. 

 

Boost MeThis is my first model on MakerWorld, if you like it leave a boost. 

 

For everybody who wants to use risers (with the P1S or X1C), I have added additional rear brackets that are longer and position the AMS higher to work with risers. There are multiple options each with 4mm of adjustment range, and you have to pick one that matches your riser height.  When installing the rear brackets for a riser you should tighten the screws for the rear brackets last, so they are set to the correct height. 

You can find the files for the taller versions in the “RISER - rear brackets” folder. 

I have released a new version for the H2D and H2S

 

Features of the design:

• Gives you full access to the top of your P1S or X1c or P2S or X2D without having to remove the AMS or place it next to the printer.
• Added taller versions, to support LED and vent risers (can be found in the “RISER - rear brackets” folder)
• Added brackets to support the AMS 2 Pro (they are under STLs in the "AMS 2  Pro brackets" folder)
• designed to be printed without supports.
• Ultra strong design can easily hold an AMS with four full spools. 
• In the flipped position the AMS extends 132mm beyond the rear surface of the P1S / X1C, which is just 34mm more than the standard external spool holder. 
• The rear brackets have integrated handles which can be used to move the 3d printer.
• needs less than 200gr of filaments to print and just over 5 hours. 

 

Required Hardware:
You can use this AMS Flipper specific Makerkit, which includes the following screws:

• 10x countersunk m3x30mm screws 
• 2x AMS transport screws or BT3x16 -AA110, if you bought the AMS combo, the AMS was screwed to a transport bracket. You can use the same screws to secure the AMS bracket. 

 

Print recommendation:
All parts are designed to print without supports and can easily fit on a single 256x256 buildplate. 
I printed the brackets in Bambu Lab ABS, and scaled it to 100.5% to accommodate for any shrinkage (3MF of that print included). 
PETg is an alternative, but I would avoid PLA, as might warp from the heat of the printer. 

Assembly:

1.   Press the AMS bracket into the bottom of the AMS. 

 

2. To make the connection even stronger you can add the AMS transport screws or as an alternative these BT3x16 -AA110 , to secure the AMS bracket to the AMS, but it is not required for it to work.  (if you bought the AMS combo, the AMS was screwed to a transport bracket. You can use the same screws to secure the AMS bracket for the Flipper)

 

3. To add the rear brackets your first have to remove the eight outer screws at the rear of the P1S/X1C.

 

4. In the next step you can screw the rear brackets in place with four countersunk m3x30mm screws on each (make sure they are on the correct sides).  The P2S/X2D only uses three screws on the right side.

 

5. Then you can slot the angle brackets into the rear brackets (make sure they are oriented the right way), you can exchange the default 75 degree ones for different ones, if you want a different angle in the open position.  

 

6. Next you have to align the AMS bracket and rear bracket to add the axis and connect them. 

 

7. Now you can push in the 3d printed axis piece (make sure it is flush with the outside of the AMS-bracket, before you continue).

 

8. The last step is to secure the axis piece in place with a countersunk m3x30mm screw (at the end the AXIS piece should be flush with the AMS-bracket, and should NOT stick out).

 

Now the AMS Flipper is installed and you can use it. 
When lowering the AMS make sure that you doing it slowly, so it does not brake the glass. 

 

Print recommendation:
All parts are designed to print without supports and can easily fit on a single 256x256 buildplate. 
I printed the brackets in Bambu Lab ABS, and scaled it to 100.5% to accommodate for any shrinkage (3MF of that print included). 
PETg is an alternative, but I would avoid PLA, as might warp from the heat of the printer.