H2C/D Nozzle Management System - UPDATED March '26

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#### Update Log ####
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Update March 2026: 
I released a major feature update for this model today! 
As with the modular NMS version, I've designed printed filament splitters that significantly reduce the resistance of the system's filament paths!

These replace the previously used 4-in-1 adapters plug and play. 

To assemble the expansion, you'll need two more PC4M6 fittings and eight more M3x10mm screws, or even better, BT3x10mm screws – both will work!  Assembly is very easy! Simply place the two halves on top of each other and screw them together with four screws each.

Then, slide the ring-shaped sleeve over the outlet end of the adapter, after which the PTFE tube fitting can be installed.

 

Installation in the NMS housing is done using the same screws as if you would use 4-in-1 Bambu Lab adapter.

The adapters are installed in the NMS housing using the same screws as if the bambu lab adapters were used previously.

This upgrade was tested by several beta testers, who all reported the same results to me - a significant reduction in system resistance, which can make all the difference in setups with long ptfe tubes.

 

 

 

Update December 2025: 

 

I know some of you have come across this model but can't use it optimally, especially since the mounting position on the printer is heavily customized to my own setup.

I've designed the “Four in Two” for all of you, which includes the core functionality of the NMS! https://makerworld.com/en/models/2055763

Thanks to its compact design, this alternative can easily be integrated into a wide variety of setups.

Update august 30th 2025: 

A conversion kit has been added to replace the printed compression fittings on the couplings (inputs) with PC4 M6 fittings

The changed couplings come with new aestatics and can be re colored easily. In addition to the new couplings, a new manifold also needs to be printed. The cutout slots in the bottom of the parts have been made wider to make room for the fittings. You could alternatively remove some material from your existing manifold. 

 

It is very important, to use the kind of fittings that allow you to push the PTFE tube THROUGH!!

check the linked option in the bill of materials. Bambu sells this exact type of M6 Fitting.

 

If you already completed the model, you can update it with the new parts if you like. If you have'nt started printing it yet and want to have this version right away, you need to substitute the corresponding plates in the main profiles.

Update June 15th: 

A second version for smaller or even bigger setups has been published: https://makerworld.com/models/1502592

 

 

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#### Model Description ####
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I designed this magnetic quick connect bay so i can re arrange my multiple AMS Setup much faster with less PTFE tube fiddling! 

Running the H2D with a multiple AMS System can be a bit complex and time consuming. you regularly have to fiddle around with the 4in1 adapters if you want to use the printer to its full potential (Or change spools very often).

 

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I have 4 AMS in use and at least one HT will be added. 

I made this so i can easily organize and change my setup and see at first glance, which ams is conneted to which nozzle. 

I like to work fast and don‘t waste time with disconnecting and connecting the PTFE tubes the all the time, you might know that from my other models! Tasks like that sometimes keep me from being creative. I have to admit, I am a little bit lazy too :D
 
Especially the small bambu 4in1, despite its good function, is a pain to disconnect the tubing.

 

With this accessory, a complete change of the AMS configuration can be done in a few seconds - with a satisfying „snap“! 

After the changes, you need to run the automatic ams detection routine once so the machine also knows how everything is connected! You can also change that manually in the filament tab on the machine!

 

EDIT May 16th 2025: A profile for this faster printing, meshed flat front cover has been added on request of the community. 
(a single plate you can print instead of the plate with my original meshed cover if you prefer that)

 

Check the Info in the print profile for further Details! 

I honestly had my doubts about the resistance of printed tube connections at first!
 

My first version for testing of this model (as seen in the picture above), included store bought Fittings and i was not so convinced, because of the resistance they‘ve put on the filament path - so i thought i should give the printed ones a try.

The connection itself has been reengineered multiple times before publishing. It can hardly be felt when filament is pushed through by hand. I was amazed with the results. 

 

It for sure causes significantly less friction than the bambu 4in1 itself, or any threaded fittings i tried.

 

Important: drill through every filament path of this part with a 2mm drill bit! The couplings do not need this step because they use a bigger hole diameter (bigger than the PTFE Tubes inner diameter, the filament does in fact not touch these parts at all.) 
 

If you still have doubts, i understand you - i felt the same before i first tried it.

 

Therefore i added a test profile for just one plain connection that only needs a few grams of filament so you can try it out.

For a first test, you can try it without magnets, just hold the two pieces together, and again, do not forget the drilling step!! You might get away without it, but it does make a big difference as far as filament path resistance goes!

Also, i designed this so you could also just use the inner hub itself. It has mounting points and can be used without the housing and holder. I assume not everyone wants to mount it to the printer the way i did it. 

 

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#####Hardware#####
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2x Bambu 4in1 PTFE Adapter

 

6x M3 heat set insert

1x M4 SHORT heat set insert (max 6mm height) 

1x M4x8mm lenshead screw

2x M3x12mm countersunk screw

4x M3x8mm lenshead screw

20x 10x2mm round magnets 

8x 5x3mm round magnets

Update august 30th 2025 - Optionally: 

2-8x PC4 M6 PTFE Tube fittings

if you want to print the conversion kit (your setup will determine how many you actually need!)

 

It is very important, to use the kind of fittings that allow you to push the PTFE tube THROUGH!!

check the linked option in the bill of materials. Bambu sells this exact type of M6 Fitting.

 

Last, you will need some sort of soft material to put between the printer and the holder for the unit. You can use multiple layers of NC005 from bambu store!

To mount it on the printer, you will need (list refers to the picture after it):

 

Top screw: reuse the existing one! 

Middle: M3 Lenshead Screw, the thread itself needs to be exactly 10mm long!

 

Bottom: M3x Lenshead Screw, the thread itself needs to be exactly 12mm long!

 

The description and assembly guide further below explains why this is very important! 

 

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#####Printing######

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I chose ABS-GF for most of the parts for a few different reasons (PETG would have been my second choice):

 

The unit is mounted to a printer with a 65 degree C chamber heater. The printer can get quite hot on the outside. This material can withstand that without losing its shape over time. This mainly applies to the holder, as the other parts will not have direct contact with the machine (i used PLA for the couplings, housing and nuts!)

I wanted a material with a hard surface, so it will not be „eaten away“ by abrasive materials in a short period of time.

ABS-GF has outstanding performance on extreme overhangs - much better than regular PLA in my personal experience! This really helps especially for the plate with the meshed lid!

It also just looks great, the glass fibers make the layer lines almost invisible!

 

 

As far as supports go, my profile uses two support interface materials for ABS and PLA.

They are used for the plate with the hub and couplings.

The meshed magnetic lid prints at an angle with regular supports.

For part and support placement in the slicer, please check the pictures i added to the print profile!

Here is an example:

Most of the parts print with 0.12mm layer height. It is especially important for the hub and couplings to not use higher layers. 

The small nuts for tightening the tube conectors are printed at 0.08mm - that is needed so the threads come out clean!

Reslice the other parts to your preference if you want to. I recommend using 0.12mm for the lid too because it is printed at 40 degree angle with various overhangs. 

 

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#### Assembly ####
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—heat set insert locations—

 

6x M3 and 1x M4 short inserts, make sure you don‘t oversink them! The short insert can be max. 6mm high! This M4 insert goes to the center hole in the holder!


—magnet locations—

 

press in and glue 8pcs 5x3mm magnets, i reccomend to use high viscosity super glue for easier application

press in and glue 16pcs 10x2mm magnets, each slot gets two magnets stacked on top of each other. 

Pay close attention to polarity, each slot should be the same! 

Make sure to use enough super glue so it is being pressed out the gaps when installing the magnets. 

I then spreaded the access glue inside the pocket so it does not leave back any high spots when it dries. Let it dry properly before use! Otherwise your connection is permanent 😂

 

Make sure that the magnets are fully pressed in!! Otherwise the filament path will not be exactly concentric with the path in the couplings!!

 

these couplings also get one 10x2mm magnet each which is glued in additionally! 

Again, make sure that you get the polarity right! The magnets inside the slots should attract the magnets on the couplings! Every coupling must have the same polarity so it can be used in every one of the 8 slots!!

—putting everything together—

 

Mount the housing on the holder with the centered M4x8mm screw

 

pre cut the PTFE tubes to 120mm length. Push them in the fittings on the hub (make sure the tubes are fully pressed in!!).

Secure them with the nuts (pay attention to the direction, the thread of the nuts is slightly conic, you will notice if you try to screw them on in the wrong direction!) 

Cut the tubes to final length using the housing as a template. Cut them, so that the 4in1 adapters fit in the pockets!

A Tip: you can bundle the tubes  to a “square”, exactly the way they would normally enter the adapter, so two on top and two in the bottom, and cut them all together!

Use a sharp knife und try to cut as straight as somehow possible!

 

 

Screw the inner hub down with two M3x12mm screws as shown in the picture above. (The screws pass through the housing and sandwich the three parts together)

 

Secure the two 4in1 adapters with four M3x8mm screws (one screw would be sufficient too..)

 

install the magnetic lid!

 

Stick some kind of felt/rubber band to this recessed area to prevent the model from shaking and banging against the printer! 

You can use multiple layers of the bambu store maker supply article NC005, which is a 0,5mm thick foam padded tape. The recessed area is 1mm deep, so you should use at least 3 layers of the tape! (just mentioning it for those of you that want to buy only from one source!)

Also, make sure that the screws are not poking through! They could harm the printers side panel!!

—Installation on the printer—

To install the unit on the printer., you will need to remove the mount for the stock spool holder! 

The screw above the two 4-pin connecters can be re used. It is long enough. 

The other two M3 screws need to be these precise lengths.

(measurement of the thread only!!)

Middle M3x10 mm

Bottom M3x12mm

 

The treaded holes on the back of the printer are blind holes! So if you use longer screws, they will reach the end of the thread before they tighten the assembly!!
 

Fix the endings of the PTFE tubes from your AMS inside the couplings. The process is the same as for the inner hub. 

!!ASSEMBLY DONE!!

I hope you like this model! 

Constructive feedback is always appreciated. 

Have a nice day, cheers

M.I.M