FormKey - A fully 3D Printed keycap set

Introducing FormKey

By request, here is a link to the Keyboard Case itself: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1926648-galium58-case-a-low-profile-mechanical-keyboard

 

A sleek, 3D-printable, low-profile keycap set designed for comfort, aesthetics, and customization. Inspired by the elegant form factor of Logitech MX keys, these keycaps provide a perfect blend of style and ergonomics.

 

Key Features:

• Ergonomic Design: Rounded edges and a gently concave surface for finger comfort, with special convex designs for modifier keys such as Control and Alt, inspired by professional-grade keyboards.
• Versatile Sizing: Includes all standard keycap sizes from 1U to 6.25U (space bar), complete with stabilizer-compatible stems for keys 2U and larger.
• Homing Keys: Specifically designed F and J keys with subtle nubs for intuitive touch typing.

• Customizable Legends: Legends are inset into keys for crisp readability and ease of printing.

   

Boost MeI have spent a lot of time designing and testing this, if you want to boost me, that would be highly appreciated!

 

The "Story”

So the idea originated from the fact that on my split keyboard i have "Thumb" buttons, and the edge of the keycap was really digging into the side of my thumb on long days of work. From there, i decided to try to create a better keycap for the thumb buttons, and thus, the first part of the FormKey was born.

After designing the thumbkeys, i thought that maybe i could do also the normal 1u keys. So i designed those. Then i thought that i have a full size keyboard build project coming up, so i thought - what the heck, ill just design the rest of the keys. Aaand, at that point, i had pretty much all of the possible different lengths on the same indented style done. But then looking at my MX keys keyboard, i noticed that all of the ctrls and alts and so on were actually convex and not concave. So i went and designed also a convex version of the "modifier" keys. After this i did a lot of experimenting with different ways of getting the legend also printed, and the best and  most efficient way was to just inset the letters. Everything else just seemed to wasteful, time consuming, or simply didn't work. 

Printing with the AMS would be take way too long, and waste too much filament, because of the way they are printed on the side. I tried also printing just they legends separately, and melt them into the insets with soldering iron. I got a 3d printing pen, and tried to fill the holes with that. I tried filling them with putty, and then painting, but it really did not produce the wanted result. And all of the methods would also require a lot of sanding, and other post processing, so for dozens of keys, it starts adding up quickly. The last thing that i would like to try at some point, would be to add some UV resin, and try to cure that in the holes, but i haven't gotten around to that. 

I am personally using the caps on some Gateron Low Profile switches, and they are about the same height as my original Nuphy Coast Dawn keycaps. So they are with an MX stem, and should fit all mx style key switches, even if they are normal profile. But mostly they are intended for use with low profile keycaps, such as Gateron Low profile, Kailh Choc V2's (not V1's, as they have a different stem), or Cherry MX low profile. But again, who am i to judge, use them wherever you want. :)
 

Printing

For the printing itself, the best results are achieved with a 0.2mm nozzle. I did some test prints also with 0.4, and especially if you don't put any legends in them, they still look great, just remember to put a bit of a lower layer hight, like 0.16. But, even with the legends, they are still passable even with the 0.4mm nozzle (see pictures). In the pictures i have also tried to use a strong light from the side, so you can really see the layer lines showing, to make up the difference. But in normal use, you don't really see any lines in them. Also, when using, at first you might notice the legends under your finger, but you get used to them really fast, and just wont pay attention to them after the first few minutes of typing. I have been running "normal" bought keycaps (Nuphy Coast Dawn) on the left half of my keyboard, and these 3d printed ones on my right one for about 2 - 3 months now just for testing the feel and longevity, and to do a comparison, but there has been no issues whatsoever, so i am going to print keycaps also for the left half, and retire my storebought keycaps completely. 
 

 

The file contents

So, in the file, you have all of the options in the first plate:

• 1U Normal
• 1U Thumb

• 1U Homing (with a small nub for the F and J in qwerty)

   

• 1.25U Normal

• 1.25U Thumb

   

• 1.5U Normal

• 1.5U Thumb

   

• 1.75U Normal

• 1.75U Thumb

   

• 2U Normal

• 2U Concave

   

• 2.25U Normal

• 2.25U Concave

   

• 2.75U Normal

• 2.75U Concave

   

• 6.25U Normal
• 6.25U Concave

All of the keys from 2U and above, have the stems for stabilizers included

 

On the other plates, i have provided a lot of examples, on how you can achieve good results. I found that the best way is to just print them on the side. You can do them in an angle, but in my testing, i didn't really find any benefit to that.

 

You have some examples for the thumb keys in the second plate

 

On the third plate there sis a full set of alpha keys from A to Z, ready to print.

 

On the fourth plate are some examples with 1 and 2 legends, but for some of them, the auto supports would be put on the front as well, so i have created an example on how to block the supports from the front, as they really are not needed.

 

Then on the last plate i have examples of using two legends, even a few more letters, such as Ent and Del.

In the project settings themselves, i have pretty much only changed the nozzle to be 0.2mm, the layer height is 0.10mm, i added ironing and also the supports are enabled.

When it comes to the supports, you can see on the examples that i have blocked the supports on the bottom corners, as they are hard to remove, and cause a lot of ugly marks. I have manually painted some supports on the overhanging parts of the stem, and in the top corners of the inside/back part. If you want top notch quality, you can also add the supports fully on the inside of the top part, to not have it doing bridging.

The legends can be easily changed, by just double clicking on the text part, and it should open the editor. You can change the font, the size, and of course the letter/number itself.

I don't know if there is anything more to say, if you have any questions or suggestions, just let me know, and i can do modifications, or add keys, or whatever you need.

 

 

Boost MeI have spent a lot of time designing and testing this, if you want to boost me, that would be highly appreciated!