August 30, 2025
Description
This is an alternate case for the electronics inside the Antank S3 Max (also sold under the SIWIQU brand on Amazon) dock for the Nintendo Switch 2, which can be purchased online for around $35. That dock is currently the cheapest 3rd-party dock confirmed to work with the Switch 2. This case model features the following improvements and features:
I've tested this with the version of the S3 dock that includes the Ethernet port. Thanks to @FFAT for confirming that it also works with the cheaper version without the Ethernet port.
Supports are required. I've painted custom supports in the print profile where they are needed. You could also use Automatic Normal supports “On build plate only,” but that will provide more than are needed. The supports I've painted should be pretty easy to remove, and should not require any post-processing.
First, disassemble the original dock. There are 5 small Philips screws on the bottom under the 3 rubber feet. I recommend heating the feet gently with a heat gun or hair dryer to help them come off cleanly. Once the screws are removed the bottom panel can be popped off using your fingernails or a plastic pry tool.
The two internal circuit boards are secured using 4 more (different) Philips screws. Remove the screws for the large board first to make it easier to access the screws on the smaller board, being careful not to damage the ribbon cable connecting them. Once all the screws are removed push the top USB-C port out to free the smaller board, then lift out both boards together.
Insert the printed button piece into the round hole in the back of the printed dock. Make sure it can move back and forth with no friction. If there is friction, gently sand or scrape the edges of the hole, particularly the top where it printed slight overhangs. You will need to be careful to keep this button in place until the larger circuit board has been installed, which holds it in place.
Insert the USB-C port on the smaller circuit board into the hole in the printed dock. Ensure the board is oriented so the screw holes line up. Secure with the same two screws that originally held it in place. Be very careful not to over-tighten the screws, they can strip very easily. They will NOT get fully snug, so stop turning when the resistance stops increasing.
Carefully insert the larger circuit board in place. There's not a lot of wiggle-room for the ports to fit in the holes so this can be a little fiddly. You'll know its in the right spot when both screw holes line up. Take your time wiggling it into place around and don't force anything. Secure with the two original screws, and again, do not over-tighten.
Verify that the button properly clicks and all the ports are accessible in the back.
(Optional) Press-fit two M3 nuts into the hex holes in the endcaps. Insert the endcaps into both sides of the main dock and then secure with two M3x4 screws. Even without screws the endcaps should friction-fit well enough to not fall out accidentally, so this extra hardware is not strictly necessary.
Slide the bottom cover into place using the two grooves. You'll need to use some force at the end to fully snap it in place. Removing it will likewise require a fair amount force.
(Optional) Stick the original rubber feet to the bottom of the dock. There aren't any dedicated spots to do this, just put them wherever you want.
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A STEP file and the Fusion source file are included to make this easier to remix.
License:
BY-NC-SA
Aptimex
