The Uber Super Luber - a new 8mm lead screw aide!

When I released the original 8mm lead screw adapter two years ago and started a whole new category of printing accessories, I had no idea it was going to be so popular. It was a quick remix and it worked, I was happy. I decided it was time to make it better though!

This is my second take at a nozzle for Super Lube's 3oz tube of 21030 PTFE grease (or 92003 if you insist on silicone-based), with the intention of making it easier to cleanly re-grease any printer's ∅8mm lead screws.

So I started over from scratch. On my list of things I wanted to improve:

✅ Fitment to the tube - new geometry on the interface between the nozzle and the lip at the bottom of the threads on the tube provides a more reliable seal and better strain relief.

✅ The human interface - I'm a huge fan of rolling wave knurling. Despite taking longer to print I love the way it feels and it provides a great grip.

✅ Triple-start threads for the cap - locks on nicely and removes easily without pulling the nozzle off the tube.

✅ Flat face on the cap - now it can be left standing upright, preventing air bubbles from rising to the top and spurting on the next use.

✅ A mated plug to prevent oozing - a little bulb on the inside of the cap lines up with the nozzle to help keep it from oozing.

✅ Designed around printer tolerances - generally tightened things up a bit for a really solid feel.

✅ Optional multi-color - because who doesn't like a little variety?

❌ Parametric thread design - unfortunately the threads used on these tubes is not a standard classification so I had to model them by hand. This prevented me from making it something that could be changed reliably to fit tubes from other brands.

Ultimately I was very pleased with the final result and it works perfectly. The length of the nozzle is still the same as before, as I found it to be just long enough to be useful for reaching the rear lead screw without being so long as to be cumbersome for the front screws or use on other printers.

The provided print profile has two plates - one that prints the knurling in a secondary color and one that prints the model in a single color. I used PETG HF and would suggest the same, but it'll print fine in PLA. These might also print decently in a really hard TPU, like TPU for AMS. 

There's an internal brim on the nozzle which should simply pull right off after printing, but otherwise there are no brims or supports to deal with. Linear speeds and acceleration values (for the X1 at least) have been slowed for really good layer adhesion for a little added strength and improved Z seam with PETG. If your filament is dry you should not have any stringing and if your build plate is clean you shouldn't have any adhesion issues.

PRECAUTIONARY NOTES:

• Please ensure that the nozzle is fully and firmly screwed on. The threads on your tube are thin plastic and will strip out if you try to really crank it down though! Screw it down until it bottoms out and give it a little extra just to be sure, but don't try to put a full unga-bunga in to it.
• PTFE grease is thick and has a really high viscosity. This is particularly true when cold! Do not squeeze very hard on your tube or you risk pressure-related problems - like blowing out the bottom of the tube or the nozzle separating from the tube. Firm, gentle pressure will slowly move the grease through the nozzle.

UPDATE 20250914: I received confirmation that the lead screws on the front of the H-series printers are further recessed  than the normal 30mm model can reach, so I stretched it out some. With an extra 20mm length this should be sufficient to work for H2D/H2S/H2C printers. It has been added as a separate profile.

Also, I need to dry my grey PETG 😬

Quick side-note - I've added a little station to organize lubricants that can either be free-standing or hang from a detachable dovetail on the wall, feel free to check it out!