working 9x9 rubiks cube

this is a working 9x9 Rubik's cube I designed. as far as I am aware, it is the only one on this site (and the only colored one on the entire internet for that matter).

note: this is a difficult project to take on and it will not work as well as you hope unless you follow these precise steps.

Filament: 

you can use either PLA or ABS

PLA will be easier to print with and make the cube very strong.

ABS will make the cube turn far better and feel very nice however it can be harder to print with, and you may struggle printing with it (though this depends on the quality of your printer).

for the core however, you have to use either PETG or PLA as ABS may crack when you screw in the M2.5 bolts

if you want to make the cube entirely printable you could in theory print the core in a softer plastic such as TPU and use PETG to make some M2.5 bolts if you wanted though it is probably easier to get some from a hardware store.

Bolts

the bolts you need are stainless steel m2.5 bolts that are 30 mm long (3cm).

Printing

in total you must print 24 of each piece (4 for each face, 6 faces) other than the core which you must print one of and the center pieces which you must print 6 of.

before you print all the pieces, I recommend that you print all the pieces from the corner of one face once remove the supports and see if it all fits together if it doesn't then you may have to re-slice and try again. i have designed each piece with a 0.2mm gap from any other piece to reduce friction and imperfections when printing

printing parameters:

0.4 or 0.2 mm nozzles will both work I printed with 0.4mm nozzle and it worked somewhat well though 0.2 mm nozzle will obviously be more precise but take longer. it is up to you on what you value more speed or precision. (anything greater than 0.4mm will probably not work)

definitely use supports probably grid support will be most reliable.

when printing the core, however, make sure that supports are only attached to the print bed and not printed on top of the actual print as this would result in excess support filament inside the holes where the bolts go which means you cannot screw the bolts in

assembly:

after printing, glue all edges and corners together so that you end up with 84 edges and 8 corners

edge halves are glued to a mirrored version of themselves in a different color for example, 1E is glued to E1 and vice versa (E0 will just be glued to another E0).

i recommend using any superglue that you want (not wood glue)

when sticking pieces together you should take time to line each of them up and then put a small elastic band around them to keep them in the correct position.

when assembling, follow this grid pattern 

each piece has been given one of these coordinates for where they are placed on the cube

note: piece E3 is different to 3E as they are mirror images of each other same with E1 and E2 with 1E and 2E but piece E0 has no mirror as it is a center edge (same with 1-0, 2-0 and 3-0 as these are the same as 0-1, 0-2 and 0-3 so they are not shown in the list of files)

in this diagram, 

you can easily screw in the centers to the core with any screwdriver compatible with the type of bolt you are using (M2.5 30mm).

if you want to further increase turn quality you can try and integrate small springs between the bolt and center piece.