Tapo C120 Door Mount P1S/X1C (CAD File Included)

Description

A simple but very effective mount for the C120 webcam that mounts straight to the door. Features:

• swings open with the door so you won't have any obstructions opening the front door'
• hood to prevent any reflections/glare (don't print it in a clear filament DUH)
• support for long term durability (and less warp when you pry it off the print bed before it's cooled down like me)
• mounts to the holes already there for the door handle (you'll need 2 M4x12 screws, 2 M4 nuts and optionally 4 M4 washers)
• integrated door handle so you don't have to grab the camera bump to open the door and risk bending the mount
• cable channel in case your cable is too long? short? idk
• good viewing angles of the plate, away from overhead lighting glare (might adjust the angle again at some point to be more downwards, but I think it's already ok right now)

Inspiration

1. I printed a 180/270 degree hinge for my printer, meaning my old sliding door design that allowed a fixed camera mount couldn't be used (bummer, but honestly I hated the sliding door so it is what it is)
2. The existing model I found (https://makerworld.com/en/models/1367805-tp-link-tapo-c120-door-camera-mount) that attaches to the door uses the hinge screws, which are blocked by the new hinge mount. Therefore, only other moving mounting point was the door handle holes.
3. The existing model was already a remix and was likely done without the cad files, meaning the mesh was a mess and I couldn't remix it directly, so I had to do it myself from scratch :P

Design Process

version 1: Shitty prototype, just for general fitment. Camera fit in perfectly, but bevel around the mount was too small and the frame of the mount still showed up, and camera was too low to see the build plate for 2cm or so of printing.

version 2: Better, and the frame was out of view, but I was scared of long term use with the camera weight and door opening shake causing warp.

verison 3: Added support for the tube, but I didn't think the viewing angle was the best. Found that the ring light I used to boost overhead lighting could be seen with a lot of glare. The edge of the build plate was also somewhat cut off.

version 4: Shifted angles around to try to fix the viewing angle, but it made the frame visible again. However, glare from the light is gone due to the tube being angled downwards in addition to sideways!

version 5: Tried to enlarge the base to allow a wider fillet but I realise now that it is at the same angle, so the frame is just as visible as before. DUH.

version 6: Reverted the horizontal angle change, but shifted the whole tube to the left instead to allow basically the whole PRINTABLE area of the bed to be seen without shifting more weight too far to the left.