Darth Vader Lightsaber (V6) locking blade

4/26/2026: Replaced profile.

4/17/2026 UPDATE.  Offsets on the forward and aft sections were not correct for the ring section.  I have provided new profile to correct that along with incorporated the previous two updates.

1/9/2026 UPDATE: So SORRY.  Just realized that I accidentally removed the Front Button from Plate 7 with the Blades.  I have  replaced that profile with one that includes the Front Button on Plate 7.  This will make the front Button Red translucent.  If you prefer a different color then you can put it on a different plate.  So sorry for my mistake.

NEW UPDATE 10/21/2025: I have uploaded an optional profile which increases the thickness of the Aft section threads into the Front section.  This adds some strength.  This requires replacing both the Aft and the Front (with Tab) sections.  If you do not often take the Light Saber apart then this is likely not needed.  I have also included a different locking Rod by reducing the the length from 93mm to 92mm.  This makes a small difference in the movement of the Switch.

UPDATE 10/20/2025: While continuously showing friends how the model is put together I have discovered a weakness in the connection between the front and aft threads.  While you shouldn't have a problem if you put it together and leave it, my actions of taking it apart and re-assembling multiple times has caused a break.  I am in the middle of designing a fix.  I will post it shortly.

My original model was simply a non-working display and I had fun developing it.  (https://makerworld.com/en/models/630274-darth-vader-lightsaber#profileId-555165)

Then I got interested in an expandable blade and with some inspiration on-line I wanted to add the lighted blade.  I made my V2 that had a deployable 5-section blade with a added light but it was so long I felt I needed to increase the diameter to make the proportion correct and I eventually thought it was too long. So, I developed a shorter version, my V4, which has a deployable 6-section blade (with 2 blade sections shorter) and the light, and you flipped out to deploy the blade.  Better, but I wanted one that had a locking mechanism that held the blade in until a ‘switch’ deployed it.  Well, V6 is what I came up with.  It still has to have a larger diameter, but I maintained the shortened profile.  Additionally, Vader's switch became useful.  I hope you like it.

The model has very tight-fitting parts.  Care must be taken to align the parts as you assemble.  I make the parts tight fitting to delete or reduce the glue requirements for most parts.  The build plates I have included look very inefficient.  I like to generally print “by objects.”  If a print malfunction occurs on a single part then Bambu Studio lets me skip that part and continue the print, but it requires many more plates. You can print more efficiently by combining parts using the same filament on a single plate printing by layers if you like.  I have also started to use more TPU.  In this model I use TPU for the handle ribs and for the black label.  If you do not have access to TPU then the ribs can be printed with normal filament, and I have included a curved label that will require print support, but it has come out clean when I printed it. In either case you will need to glue the black label.  I also note that I use PLA and PETG together when needing support.  Normally I use PLA as the primary build material and then use PETG as the interface for the support.  You can of course switch these.  This has worked very well for me.  I have also included the m4 screws and nuts that you can print but you cannot torque them too much.  The way they are printed doesn’t give them much tensile strength.  I normally order m4 screws and nuts from Amazon.

When you print the front section – this includes two parts: the front section and the flap.  These need to be printed in place with the front end down.  The flap (tab) will start out a little tight but will loosen up with use. The front section has some index tabs on the top and bottom edge for the hood-back to slip onto.  To assemble, first assemble the ‘hood-back’ and the decor pieces and slide these from the back of the front section forward.  Again, this is a tight fit but slide them forward up on the tabs.  You should be able to see all the treads in the hood-back and the decor.

At this point you will screw the hood into the assembly. This is a very tight fit, but you need to continue to rotate the hood until the treads can no longer be seen, and the top edge of the hood aligns with the decor part. This may take some extra effort. You can install the ring clip and the three buttons into the decor now, or wait until you finish the full assembly. I have tried to make the buttons tight enough to not require glue so it can be disassembled but you may want to glue these to make sure they do not come out inadvertently.  Here you can also attach the black label onto the front section now, or wait until after full assembled.  You must use glue here.

To assemble the second (Ring section) you first insert the switch panel into the ring section, noting which end has the cutout for the switch-box.  You then insert the switch-box into the switch panel from inside the ring section.  This should not require any glue.  It should fit tightly enough but removable if required.  You can then insert the locking shaft (which I recommend using PETG for strength) into the switch-box. Hold this in place with a finger and slide the assembly onto the front section aligning the locking shaft into it’s grove in the front section.  This may take a little finesse movement.  It must be aligned correctly but will eventually slide onto the front section. Push it forward until it stops.  You can install the power lever and the side panels now or at the end.

 You can test the operation of the switch here.  Insert the blade assembly, hold the switch in the forward position and it should prevent the blade from moving forward.  Sliding the switch panel back (only about 2mm) should release the door tab and the blade should exit the front.

This would be a good time to add the black label, or wait as the last step.  You can either use the PLA curved label or the TPU rubber label.   Either way they will need to be glued .  Add the silver “screws” either way.

You again have the option to mount the handle ribs (either PLA or TPU) onto the aft section before you screw it into the front section or after it is fully assembled.  Sorry, but you must use glue to secure the ribs onto the aft section.  Insert the blades into the aft section and push the aft section into the ring section and screw into the front section.

Insert the flashlight into the small light holder and insert this into the end of the aft end and screw the endcap onto the aft section.  I purchased all my 3 ½ inch flashlights from Amazon.  

There are multiple sites with small differences in the profiles but they all seem to have the same back end for this light holder since they all use the same clip. 

(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9H7CPZM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)

( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097MKQ8MG?th=1)

There is one uk site 

(https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07LC6YPTC?th=1)