Self Draining H2 Nozzle Wiper for X1 / P1

Top performing, self draining H2 nozzle wiper for X1 / P1 series. The H2 wiper “hugs” the nozzle up the sides and wipes debris off very effectively which of course is way better than original but also significantly better than the A1 pad mods. As a bonus it's also significantly more durable than the “pillar mat” of the A1 pads. I haven't needed to wipe the nozzle even once since I started using this about 1200 filament changes ago compared to once every 5th print or so when using a popular A1 pad mod, wiping with paper after prints when still molten. 230 filament changes in a single print with non-dried PLA, completely blob-free with clean nozzle at finish.

 

Using Bambu H2 Nozzle wiping pad.

High temp filaments only. PLA will warp.

Screw is using 2mm hex.

 

V1.2 -  Removed everything except the frame. When checking after about 2000 filament swaps I noticed beneath the channel to the right, two strands of purge not falling through, at least yet. Would probably be pushed through but found the middle reinforcements to be redundant.

 

I have applied a thin film of oil using finger, on and around aluminum square and the left side of chute but none on the trap door. Idea is that it won't stick on the chute walls but on the door that then will drag it down and off the wall. Worked very well for over 8 months on A1 purge deflector where poop often got stuck without very thin oil film.

 

For warpier filaments, up the temp on plate all print and first layer nozzle temp to prevent warping in the corners. I added thin layer liquid glue for perfect flat, on freshly cleaned plate. I used ASA and added +5c on plate temp all print and +5c nozzle first layer. I also pre-heat the chamber for 10+ minutes with plate on 105c.

 

Because the rubber pad rocks the chute less than stock wiper, the purge poop doesn't always drop down immediately as often as before. It never sticks around for long enough to cause problems. Longest I've noticed is immediately after 3rd pruge (before I filed edges of aluminum square but with oil film). Maybe 40-50% doesn't drop immediately after 1st with aluminum square edges untouched. Of those which stayed until 2nd, about 80% dropped immediately after and almost all before 3rd. These results got at least twice as good after I filed edges of the square which I first did with files and then took dremel. I for some reason didn't think it was removable but you can detach alu square with box cutter or similar thin object. It's attached with double-sided tape. Use something behind to protect tape from metal dust, like sacrificial plastic ice cream box like or possibly owen paper. 2nd round, last picture, cut the numbers in half again and performs very well. Wanted to remove all of the inner side / edge of the square so that there's nothing to hang from as original where it can hang / “wedge” between square thickness and left side of chute. Ideally, Bambu should make a slot in the chute so that it would sit flush. I super glued sand paper to shaft end of needle file to help sand even surface around after square finished.

 

Hope you like it!

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Also check out my AMS Speed Loader, my AMS 1 + 2 compatible filament clip that doesn't bump into the AMS spool guide fins, my See-through AMS Buffer Dust cover, my AMS Buffer Cover,  my AMS PSU Holder, my AMS 2 Air Intake Filter, my Vibration Isolated Poop Chute and Anti-Vibration Concrete Feet and Poop Chute Door.