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Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Image 1
Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Image 2
Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Image 3
Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Image 4
Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Image 5
Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Image 6
Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig 3D Printer File Thumbnail 6

Digispark ATTiny85 Real USB Conversion Drill Jig

RobTurbo avatarRobTurbo

November 22, 2025

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Description

I got a few Digispark ATtiny85's to play with, thought it'd be better with a “real” USB plug so ordered a few from AliExpress and made a jig to help fit them.

 

The USB plugs I used, as seen in the photos, have 2 plastic locating pins and 2 tabs to secure them. This jig has notches on the sides to use a small file to allow room for the tabs and 2 holes to guide a drill for the locating pins, it's safe to drill straight through here, there's no traces inside that can be damaged, just push the jig over the end of your ATTiny85, it's a snug fit, and you're ready to file and drill.

 

You'll need to expose some of the copper on the bottom side to solder the tabs to, obviously directly inline with the filed notches, I used a razor blade to gently scrape away the coating.

 

Place the USB plug in place with the locating pins in the new holes, fold the tabs around the board with pliers or similar, solder the tabs, then solder the pins to the 4 original contacts, clean any flux residue, all done!

 

Next up is cases to suit, so far I'm planning on a fully enclosed version, an open top version with full access to headers and an open end version so wires can be soldered to the I/O pins for whatever uses you may have.

License:

BY-NC-SA

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