Fortnite Wrecker Revolver Interactive Model 11"

Introducing my most advanced model - the Fortnite Wrecker Revolver!

Two interactive features after assembly - Spinning Mag & Fold Down Barrel!

A1 Mini Profile now included. My models are always visually identical to the game, but I am going one step further and future models will now be functionally identical where appropriate! After you assemble this gun, the barrel will fold down, and the mag holding the rounds will be ‘spinnable’. To make these features easy to assemble and printable takes extra time when designing - so all likes, comments, and thumbs up are extra appreciated!

Check out all of my Fortnite Guns!

• 2026: Fortnite Wrecker Revolver
• 2025: Fortnite P90 Compact SMG
• 2025: Fortnite Mammoth Pistol
• 2025: Fortnite Holo Twister Rifle
• 2025: Fortnite Scoped Burst SMG
• 2025: Fortnite Havoc Shotgun
• 2024: Fortnite Gatekeeper Shotgun
• 2024: Fortnite Scar

The gun is full size/costume/Adam-Savage prop worthy. Even the A1 Mini (already 88% scaled) is quite nice. Many hours spent modeling, testing, printing, reprinting. This model doesn't ‘shoot’ anything and the trigger is stationary. The spinning action must be manually done. You can print stress free using my custom profiles made for each plate organized by color:

Grey Parts - 15% Gyroid - Top Rail, Trigger, Hammer, Baseplate

Black Parts #1 - 12% Gyroid - Fold-Down Barrel, Mag Wheel, Mag Shaft, Iron Sights

Black Parts #2 - 12% Gyroid - Rear Stock, Mag Shield

Red Rounds - 15% Gyroid - Bullet Rounds

A1 Mini - 13% Gyroid - 88% Scaled - All Plates in One Print Profile!

Top Rail: This rail must be completely secured to the front main part, because this top rail is what you grab to open the gun after assembly (assuming you don't want to glue everything shut). The gray top rail must be glued at all 3 pin points, as well along the whole top rail to ensure it doesn't break off of the black piece.

Pivot Point: I removed one millimeter off of the pivot so it should be a little easier. Be careful connecting the pivot point is all I'm saying - it is a tight fit, but it works! Lightly sanding the pins/cleaning the support well will help. If the first few printers aren't satisfied I will shave off another 0.5mm from the pivot point. Comments welcome.

Removing Supports: I used 2-wall trees on the large parts to ensure no failures. These strong trees will require patience when removing in order not to damage the model. Carefully pull the supports off with needle nose pliers or similar. 1-wall trees were not consistent enough during my test prints.

Please keep in mind you are not printing one model - you are printing 20 models and a couple may require a skip/reprint/re-do. Hopefully not though! I know there will be plenty of people that will click print on each plate and have zero problems with their perfectly dialed in printer and filament just like my other models. I had to reprint the front body because I wasn't happy with the adhesion on the long skinny part. I since did everything possible in the settings to get it to stick but there still may some lifting there. Use the mobile app to easily skip objects mid-print!

I recommend gel super glue to avoid dripping. Apply the gel glue to the female side of every connection for easier assembly. Try not to get glue on any visible parts it will leave a permanent mark on the model.

What other models would you print?