Snapmaker U1 Slant-Flap Hinged Top Cover

16.03.26
Uploaded a 2-color design for the U1. The 3mf file is in the STL/CAD downloads “Snapmaker U1 Side Windows colored U1 3mf”. Sliced in Orca!

01.02.26
Uploaded a 2-color design. You find also the 3mf file for the U1 in the STL/CAD downloads “Snapmaker U1 Top Cover Coloriert U1 3mf”

* Uploaded the back frame parts with windows. You need two square acrylics with 252 x 166 x 3 mm. You find the 3mf file for the U1 in the STL/CAD downloads “Snapmaker U1 Top Cover mit Seitenfenstern U1 3mf” *
 
The bevel overlaps - the acrylic window is square!

* Uploaded a glass frame for 12 x 12 inch panels (3 mm thick). You find it in the STL/CAD downloads “Snapmaker U1 Top Cover for 12inch glass 3mf for U1” *
* Added a top left and right cover with a ventilation slider. You find the 3mf file for U1 in the STL/CAD downloads “Top Ventilated Cover for U1” 
This model is a remix and cool(ing) 😉 upgrade from Andrew Blum - Thank you Andrew! *
* Also uploaded a Bambu 3mf for the 300x300 glass frame * 
* Added a glass frame for 300x300 mm acrylics (3 mm thickness). Uploaded under STL/CAD downloads (Snapmaker U1 Top Cover Glass Frame 300x300) *
* If you want to print on the U1, download the correct 3mf file: Choose under STL/CAD download the file “Snapmaker U1 Top Cover SnapOrca3mf” *

* Don´t use matte PLA for the support, as this could adheir stronger to PETG than basic PLA *

* The acrylic glass is square! Only the glass frame has on top two rounded corners! *
* I added some info/helping tips for removing the support in the recess of the glass frame *

This top cover for the Snapmaker U1 has a moveable front flap which will be hold in two different positions. Both to have an easy access from the top front of the printer to the toolheads and print plate. At the back bottom left and right are small inlets with inner guidings to the top - for a LED strip for example. The guide has some small holes for cable ties if needed. And there is also a hole for the 6-pin cable in the bottom middle.
The top cover height is on the highest point 305 mm and is 510 mm in depth.
 

The model is uploaded as a remix because I used the opening idea mechanism from designer Mallasalla. I only used the mechanism for the top cover as a template and completely redrawn it myself. Therefore, the:
- geometry of the parts is different (length, width, height, edges, rounded corners, drill holes, etc.)
- cause of it´s size it is split in two parts and therefore has a connection point
- slightly different bend for the correct tension
The whole top cover body/frame and flap is fully my own design.

If you want to print this model on the Snapmaker U1, you need to download the 3mf file from the STL/CAD Download menu, named: Snapmaker U1 Top Cover SnapOrca3mf

Print the top cover with PETG or a even higher heat resistant filament (ASA, ABS..). PLA is not recommended, because it could deform. Filament with carbon or glass fiber is also not recommended, because the fibers interfere with the opening mechanism and the arms no longer glide as well on the surface. 
The model is successful printed with PETG - if you choose another filament, please make sure you use the right print settings due to possible material shrinkage. I recommend to do a little test print to maintain dimensional accuracy.
 

Boost MeIf you like my work, I would appreciate your boost very much! 🫶

 

PRINT SETTINGS       I'm only mentioning those that deviate from the standard settings

Overall:

Always keep your print plate clean!
For the larger parts - if you encounter any warping - you can additionally add some painted custom mouse ears and/or add some spray adhesive.

Layer height: 0.24 mm
Initial layer height: 0.24 mm
Wall loops: 3

Top & Bottom shell layers: 4

Sparse infill density: 10 %

Sparse infill pattern: Cubic

Infill/Wall overlap: 30 %

Brim type: Outer brim only

Brim-object gap: 0 mm

 

Different settings for these objects/plates:

Plate 1 + 2 + 3

Enable support: yes

Style: Tree hybrid
On build plate only: yes

Top Z distance: 0.21

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate 10 + 11

Enable support: yes
Type: normal (auto)

Style: default

Support/raft interface: choose PLA basic filament (not PLA matte!)

Top Z distance: 0 mm

Bottom Z distance: 0 mm

Base pattern: Rectilinear

Base pattern spacing: 0 mm

Interface pattern: Rectilinear

Top interface spacing: 0 mm

Support/object xy distance: 0.4 mm

+ cange Speed settings for:
Support: 40 mm/s
Support interface 40 mm/s

+ raise the PLA print temperature a bit and also the bed temperature (to get a little closer to the PETG temperature settings).

Removing the supports from the recess of the frame:
Use a precision cutter (like the Wiha Z40112803SB Electronic Slim Side Cutter) to "grab" (not cut!) the PLA interface and pull it sideways out. Sometimes its kind of sticky and stuck in between. To get some room you can cut some support material between the PLA layers - this will help to get it out. It also can help to get with a razor blade between the support and object, just a short bit to loosen the PLA for a small length.

 

Plate 12

Wall loops: 6
Sparse infill density: 30 %

Brim type: painted mouse ears (automatic)

Brim-object gap: 0 mm
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate 13

For the left and right arm:
Enable support: yes
Type: normal (auto)

Support/raft interface: choose PLA basic filament (not PLA matte!)

Top Z distance: 0 mm

Base pattern: Rectilinear

Base pattern spacing: 0 mm

Interface pattern: Rectilinear

Top interface spacing: 0 mm

Support/object xy distance: 0.4 mm

+ cange Speed settings for:
Support: 100 mm/s
Support interface 40 mm/s
+ raise the PLA print temperature a bit and also the bed temperature (to get a little closer to the PETG temperature settings).
 

 

BILL OF MATERIALS

Filament:
~ 2,5 kg
Acrylic glass:

1x acrylic glass with 3 mm thickness and 362 mm x 358 mm (its square, no rounded corners)
Screws:

Use machine screws with a head like: pan, button, countersunk

cap head might not work for the narrow spaces due to the height of the head

(thread length is specified):

• Rear panels: 6x M4, 8 mm
• Top cover to rear panel: 6x M4, 10 mm
• Lid glass frame: 3x M4, 8 mm
• Front clamp cover: 2x M4, 6 mm
• Axis connection glass frame to lid: 2x M4, 30-35 mm
• Bending arm mechanism to frame: 2x M4, 8 mm
• Bending arm connection: 2x M4, 8 mm
• Glass frame axis connection: 4x M3, 6 mm
• Glass frame joint connection: 2x M3, 12 mm
• Front handle: 2x M3, 12 mm

 

ASSEMBLING
 

1. All wall sections are pushed together. Not every section can be inserted from all sides, but this shouldn't be a problem. If a section is inserted incorrectly, it can easily be pushed back out.

2. Screw the back panels together:

3. Take the top cover panels and the two small dowels and push them together (you can also glue them)

4. Screw the top cover panels and the back panels together

5. Screw the arm mechanism parts together and screw them into the mounting position. Screws from inwards. Pay attention to the left and right markings. The edge must point downwards so that the arm cannot slide too far towards the wall:

6. Screw in the front clamp cover (it holds both arms in sliding position):

7. Insert the acrylic glass into the frame recess and screw the glassframe parts together:
    

8. Screw in the front glassframe with the handle:

9. Screw the glassframe and the axis connections:

10. Screw the axis connection and the arms together. Screws from the outside. Pay attention to left and right, the text must point inwards. 
    Caution: Carefully tighten the screw until the arm is held in place - if you screw too quickly and the screw hits the arm, the axle may break.

11. Screw the glassframe and the top cover together. Screws from the outside.

12. Now you only need to insert from below the four feets and the small back covers - 1x for 6-pin in the middle and 2x on each side for the cable entrys.

FINISHED!