This is a 10-inch rack shelf for a dual Raspberry Pi setup, along with OLED screens and a button cutouts.
RPi shelves are nothing new, but I wanted all the ports and cabling kept in the back, so the front plate is kept fairly clean.
I'm running dual Raspberry Pi 2 Model B boards (they still have life in them in 2026 with DietPi!), but this design should fit RPi 3 or 4 boards just fine also.
The shelfs used to secure the board can be replaced with your own if you run a different board (i.e. Pi Zero etc…)
PSA: Let the prints cool down properly before removing from the plate, removing too early can lead to warping.
Features
- Front panel cutouts for two OLED screens and buttons
- RPi boards and the POE splitters sit on a tray, so that there is an option to swap boards if needed (i.e. RPi zero, Rpi 5, Orange Pi etc…) without needing to reprint the whole shelf
- POE splitters I used didn't have mounting holes, so velcro straps hold them in place. There is a spacer you can print to support the tray (as velcro straps prevent it sitting flush). Double sided tape also works in which case you do not need the velcro or spacer
- Tray is slightly raised so you can run cables underneath for cleaner cable management
- Pics show my questionable soldering … don’t judge 😛
How to assemble
[I'm aware my instructions aren't the clearest but I hope between them and all the pictures + extra assmbly pictures, you should be fine. If there is enough interest I might try to put together some Ikea-like isometric assembly diagrams on putting things together]
After printing the shelf, the shelf will have 6x dovetail blocks on the shelf which the tray slides into. These are printed with a tiny 1mm bit of support to help with printing.
Cut these away with a knife (take care not to injure yourself!). They will probably break away by hand also, but a knife will make a more accurate job
- Attaching the OLED brace
Using 2x M2.5 x 12mm screws (button head recommended for lowest profile), put the screws through the bottom of the shelf and the brace slots, then add a washer (optional) and nut)
Keep this a little loose so the brace can move, it will make it easier later
- Adding in the OLED screen
Slide the brace as far back as it can go, and place the OLED screen in the from position (between the front plate of the shelf and the brace).
Slide the brace forward so it is rest against the back of the OLED and it pins it against the front of the shelf.
Don't use excessive force, or you can crack the OLED screen given they are not very strong (ask me how I know this ….)
Holding this in place, you can now tighten the screws/nuts to hold the brace in this position which keeps the OLED screens in place also
I don't have an image of this stage, but here is what it should look like (ignore all the cables, RPi and switches being installed)
- Add in the spacer
[Skip if you plan to use double sided tape to keep the POE splitter in the tray]
Put the “L” shaped spacers into the shelf by slotting them into these dovetail areas of the shelf (see step 7 image for what this should look like)
Put aside the shelf for a moment. The next steps are all about putting the RPi tray together.
- Assemble the board tray (POE Splitter)
Add in the POE splitter to the board tray and secure with velcro (or double-sided tape). There are some cutaway slots to run the velcro through them.
Screw the raspberry Pi board into the tray from the top of the board (run the POE splitter ethernet cable under the board first to make cable management easier)
For each of the 4 mounting holes, use a M2.5 washer (recommended) and a M2.5 x 6mm screw (any head type is fine, but I like socket head types for this)
It should look like this when done:
- Slot the tray into the shelf using the dovetail connections. This should sit on top of the spacer
- From underneath the shelf, using 2x M2.5 x 6mm screws (button head recommended as they have the lowest profile), screw through the shelf, spacer and into the bottom of the tray mounting posts.
This should keep everything together so nothing slides out
- Add in your 16mm switch
- Run you connections from the OLED and switch back to your RPi as needed
- Repeat these steps for your 2nd RPi board
Hardware requirements
- 2x 0.96" I2C OLED screen (1 per board)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QFVBN2W
2x 16mm switches with nuts
No specific link - search “16mm switch” on eBay, AliExpress, or Amazon and you’ll find plenty of options. LED, non-led, metal, plastic, momentary or latching etc…
- 2x POE Splitter (1 per board)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01H37XQP8
- 2x Raspberry Pi 2 or 3 board
No specific link
- Screws
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CY1YZZC8
Per RPi board
4x M2.5 x 6mm screws (any head type works, I personally like socket heads )
4x M2.5 x 6mm screws (button head recommended)
6x M2.5 washers (optional, but recommended)
2x M2.5 nuts
2x M2.5 x 12mm (button head recommended)
What am I using this for?
I'm using this with two AdGuard Home servers (Primary & Secondary).
The OLED screens show stat info for each server - no. of DNS queries, blocked count/percentage, uptime, and hostname.
The latching switches let me quickly toggle protection. When unlatched, AdGuard runs normally with blocking on. When latched, the switch LED turns on and that server’s protection is disabled - super handy for quick access.
Rack info
I use the Modular 10 server rack (link to rack). The faceplate thickness is 2.6mm to match that rack's design
Boost MeIf you found this useful and have a boost to spare, I'd appreciate it 👍
Psychobob
