Insulated lid for tall Stanley cup (from Costco)

Replacement lid for Stanley insulated cups which were sold a few years ago in a 2-pack at Costco. (See the attached pics.)

• Replacements are not available through Stanley
• Commonly available generic replacement lids I have tried do not fit
• No other model of Stanley lid seems to fit this Costco version of a Stanley cup

So, what are you going to do… print one, of course!!

The dimensions:

This lid friction-fits on the inside of the cup. The interior opening of the cup (where it seals) is approximately 76mm wide. The lid sits flush on top of the cup and is approximately 90mm wide. The lid is 26mm thick (approximately 1 inch deep).

The parts

This lid is comprised of 4 separate parts, in 3 different Print Profiles, as follows:

Print Profile #1: Stanley lid (Costco version).3mf

This file contains 2 parts; the Lid, and the moveable Closure. The profile is setup for PETG HF, with ironing settings turned-on (and tweaked to 40/40/.1/0). Top layer speed settings reduced.

Print Profile #2: Peg.3mf

This file only contains the peg, which inserts into the Closure, for opening and closing the lid. You may friction-fit this peg by pushing it hard into the Closure, AFTER the Closure has been properly inserted into the Lid. This profile is setup for PETG HF, with using a thin layer of PLA as an interface for the supports. This is the only piece where supports are recommended; horizontal printing is recommended for part strength. Ironing is also enabled (and tweaked to 40/40/.1/0). Top layer speed settings reduced. You may still need to scrape a bit of the support material off afterwards, but it only takes a few seconds. (A PLA interface layer helps significantly.)

Print Profile #3: O-Ring.3mf

This file only contains the o-ring, which rests inside a groove on the outside of the Lid. This profile is setup for generic TPU (I used Sunlu 95A TPU). 

Assembly:

1. Print all 4 parts. 
2. Insert Closure into the Lid. This task is a bit tricky/difficult. It's really the only hard thing about this whole print! There is a risk of messing-up up your lid, in which case you will need to re-print it and try again. Here are a few tips to help:
   1. Flip the lid upside down so that it is sitting flat on a hard surface. It should sit flat. (If you put the peg in already, you got ahead of yourself!) Orient the mouth-opening so that it is closest to you. 
   2. Take the Closure, and get very familiar with it. There are 2 holes - one hole is for the Peg, and one hole is for that cone-shaped protrusion on the inside of the Lid, dead-center. The cone on the Lid is what the Closure turns on - you will need to ensure that the center-hole in the Closure properly mates with the cone in the lid for this assembly to properly open and close. Notice that the Lid also has a thin lip around the inside, with two indentations/openings - this lip is what keeps the Closure inside of the Lid. 
   3. Orient the Closure face down (holes down), roughly lined-up with the mouth opening, with the cone-hole roughly lined-up with where the cone is. You will need to insert/feed the Closure under the lip, and snap it into place. the ends of the Closure will need to be lined-up with the indentations/openings in the lip when you apply pressure, otherwise you will likely snap some of the lip off. I did this successfully twice, but am very aware that it would not be hard to mess-up the lip - it's thin! The tighter the tolerances of the Lid/Closure, the harder it is to insert. (If you really have issues, you could reduce the Z-height distance on the Closure, but the closing-action could be a bit sloppier as a result.) 
   4. Ensure the Closure freely moves inside of the lid. Flip the lid over so that the top of the lid is facing up on the hard surface. Move the Closure until the mouth opening is part-closed, and the peg-hole is visible. 
   5. Partially insert the peg into the hole (lightly) to check for fit. If you're happy with the fit, decide if you wish to glue the peg permanently. Optional: choose your favorite glue (CA glue would likely work fine) and apply some inside of the hole. Not optional: insert the peg into the hole, and press hard (do not be shy!) 
   6. Test the Closure by moving the peg back-and-forth. If you inserted the Peg fully, there should only be about 2 mm of clearance when the Peg is seated in the fully-open or fully-closed position. If it is sticking-up too much, press-down on that Peg again! (Maybe use something hard to push it.)

Full disclosure: this lid is not 100% watertight when closed. It will, however, stop most splashes from exiting the cup (really helpful during a commute). It will also keep all but the tiniest of insects out of your beverages. It should prevent you from losing most of your drink if the cup tips over, turning a potentially major disaster into a minor mishap. 

Please post pictures of your makes. If you make any further refinements, feel free to post a new Print Profile for other to benefit from!