BC250 AMD case v3, HP server PSU, HDD, USB hub

UPDATE: This project is obsolete. There are better version V4 of it here https://makerworld.com/pl/models/2481620-bc-250-case-v4-for-flexatx-and-hpserver-psu#profileId-2725662  - few changes, few improvements, but idea - is still this same. 

(This is better/newer/updated version of this AMD BC-250 Case: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2263468-bc-250-bc250-amd-case-for-hp-server-psu#profileId-2466837 )
 

Updates:

1. place for 2.5" ssd/hdd under BC250 mainboard. Can be easy connected by some cheap “USB3.0 to Sata cable”, going thru rear panel (there are a holes in rear panel, for cables, to route it via BEFORE you screw panel to case).

2. place for 2 “blower fan” type 5015 (typical cheap (and silent) fans used in 3d printers etc) - with additional heat-sink(s) glued to backplate - can significantly improve back plate cooling (VRM and RAM chips are under backplate, on the back of board). 

   If you do not want mount these blowers - there is a dummy to cover these holes:

    

    

3. Invisible connection (with lip around case to better hold pieces together) front and rear half:

   
    

4. (better) place for USB (2.0 or 3.0) HUB in front, cable routed bellow BC250 to rear connectors

5. place for 22mm power button on front. Can be switching type, connected do PSU (pins 33, and gnd), or push-button type, connected (soldered) to rear power button on BC250 board. 

    

6. better airflow. Now air inlet for main fan is on top (covered by big grille), but on front panel too. If you cover top inlet - airflow will be not so good, but still will works. 

7. not visible connection between front and rear parts of case. Now no ugly screws on sides! You should drive a screw by allenkey or long screwdriver thru front hole, like this (before you put heatinserts in front holes!):
    

8. On front panel - invisible (only 1 layer height) place for power/voltage meter. As HP power supply is providing analog signal, to indicate power load (50mV/10W) - you can put small 0.28" voltmeter, and tune it (by changing input divider/tune potentiometer) to show "100" (1.00v? 100v?) when 0.50V is measured 
    

   if you use these meter with white, green, yellow, or blue color (these are brighter than red) - should be visible thru one layer of petg. If you want - you can easy cut this rectangle, and whole meter face will be visible. It should be screwed by 2mm small screws, but can be glued too. 
   If you print front panel from dark filament - it should be visible somewhat like this: