March 25, 2026
Description
Update May 2026:
A nozzle storage solution for your dedicated TPU nozzles is now available
I've uploaded these TPU inserts for storing three nozzles as a separate model, which also allows for remixes.
You can them it here: https://makerworld.com/de/models/2761428-nozzle-storage-for-mim-tpu-feed-assist-system#profileId-3065768
Hello everyone!
Today I'm presenting what I believe to be the first alternative system that is fully compatible with the OEM Bambu lab kit.
When I heard that bambu lab was releasing the TPU feeding assist module, I was absolutely thrilled.
As a designer who regularly works with this material, this release is a huge thing for me.
However, the standard mount didn't fit my printer accessory ecosystem.
Therefore, I decided to design a completely independent solution for the module, which includes a completely redesigned housing.
This module has a significantly narrower profile, allowing it to be mounted directly to the back of my H2 printer. The internal components have been completely rearranged compared to the standard version.
It looks like a simple box, but I assure you, a lot of development time went into it. I scanned the extrusion unit with my 3D scanner and meticulously designed the module around it to avoid wasting any space.
I started working on it immediately after receiving my unit and have now spent almost a whole week on this model.
The biggest challenge was managing where which part goes, without extending the cables in the original cable set while still ensuring a practical and functional layout of the components.
Furthermore, only the hardware included with the module is needed to assemble my design.
You won't need a single additional screw. In fact, you won't even use all the screws included in the package.
The reduction in mounting hardware also made this compact design possible.
Assembly requires only a 2mm hex key, which is included with every bambu lab printer.
The footprint of my unit is largely determined by the available space between the filament inputs and the 6-pin bus connector at the rear of the H2 printer series.
I ensured that this space is used optimally and that no important components on the device are blocked.
For possible removal of the internal filament buffer, I integrated a corresponding through-hole into the bracket for H2 printers.
The bracket is attached to the rear of the device with two screws and additionally secured with a strip of thin double-sided adhesive tape.
Should the back panel need to be removed for any reason, this is possible without removing the mounting hardware.
The mount is designed so that the module can be installed and removed without tools. This makes it easy to transfer the module from one printer to another if you have multiple printers.
It takes just one minute and requires no tools.
Update April 10th, 2026
A wraparound style bracket is now also available for H2 printers!
The yellow part to the left side of the picture replaces the fixture for the stock spool holder. It is mounted whitnthe same screws as the original part.
Integrated cable management is of course also part of this new holder!
Update March 29th, 2026
A Bracket for P1, P2 and X1 Series has been released.
This Holder tightly wraps around the corner of your printer and holds the Feeding module in horizontal position:
The bracket is made from multiple parts that slide together. After assembling it, using only one BT2.6x8mm screw, it is fixed to the printer with the two ST12x3mm screws. All these hardware parts are part of feed module kit! Learn more about Assembly further down!
Printing
At launch, I'll provide two different print profiles for the Assist module: a single-color version printed on a single build plate, and a visually refined three-color solution – based on the color scheme of the Bambu Lab printers.
The parts in these profiles have fairly simply geometries, so you will be able to print them from a wide variety of materials and achieve good results.
For the H2 holders, i am using PETG HF, while all other profiles are using PLA for all parts.
The top half of the housing features fuzzy skin on the outside “ring” which makes a good contrast to the texture of the other half.
It's a pure aestetic feature so feel free to remove it if you prefer a smoother finish.
I will probably add a third profile soon that will be more single nozzle printer focused but still multicolor, but only on the base layer.
Assembly
….requires a bit of dexterity, but with the following instructions, it shouldn't pose much of a challenge! You will need seven of the short self cutting screws that come with the kit! as well as these other parts.
We'll start with the trickiest step! Place the parts in front of you on a work surface like this:
The small status LED is inserted into the circular opening. The wires attached to the LED are relatively stiff and can be used to push the LED into place.
The two wires should me oriented horizantally (you can observe the state through the small pocket)
If you have trouble with this, you can use a piece of loose filament to push it from behind until it reaches the end of the hole.
Next, this clip is installed to prevent the LED from slipping out again.
that's why the two wires being horizontal is important! you could damage the wires otherwise!
If you find that the clip is fairly loose.. that's OK, it will be secured with one of the next steps! i wanted the led to be easily removable if needed.
After that, the three switch boards can be installed. Since these three parts are all the same, you don't need to worry about which part goes in which pocket.
Once you've inserted them into the pockets, they are secured with this mounting plate and two screws. Be careful not to pinch any wires.
The LED retaining clip is now also fully secured!
The small cable harness can now be connected to the switches and other components. Refer to this photo for the cable colors:
The extruder unit can then be slid into the designated recess. Ensure it slides completely into the housing.
For the next steps, it can be helpful to put the PCB to the right side like in the picture above
Now, all cables are routed into this space.
The motor cable should run straight down from the connection point and then into the cable pocket in the upper left corner. It is important that all cables exit the pocket in this area.
Now, the cable harness can be plugged into the circuit board, and the board can be mounted with two screws.
Again, be careful not to pinch any cables.
After installing the PCB you can connect the two remaining plugs
This yellow part is later used to unlock the PTFE Tube from the input without the need for any tools!
Just put it in this pocket, you'll see where it goes! It will be fully secured to stay in place once the cover is on!
When you're done with all the steps above, you can now mount the cover.
It simply slides over from above. While doing this, keep an eye on the motor cables, they need to lign up with the cutout in the cover.
Afterward, the module must be turned over – it is secured with three screws from the back.
Until the screws are tightened, you must hold the two halves together by hand. Caution! The extruder unit is only held by the lid and will fall off otherwise!
The assembly of the actual module is now complete!
P/P2/X Brackets Assembly:
As mentioned in the model description, the P/X Brackets are made from several parts.
I chose this method because it made it easier to integrate multiple cable attachment points into the design,
without having to print them in a less-than-ideal orientation.
The parts are slid together in this order….
….and secured with a single BT2.6x8mm screw (included in the kit of course..!)
The Bracket is now fully assembled. You can install the Low Profile Module by simply sliding it into this frame until it clicks into place.
The cable clips are designed to be a tight fit so the cable does not come loose easily, you may need to press it in with a bitof force to fully seat the cable.
Now the complete unit can be installed on your printer!
This step uses the two only machine bolts from the kit, which are ST12x3mm screws.
After doing that, you can connect your PTFE tubes and the 4Pin cable - done!
As you can see, i am only using a very short piece of PTFE tube on the input. This bracket is designed to be used together with a stationary spool holder, rather than an open spool holder, such as the stock one. TPU is hygroscopic and should be enclosed at all times - otherwise you will need to dry it for every other print to achieve good results.
I am exlcusively using this model in combination with my “Retracting Spool Holder” or “Retracting Spool Holder Pro”, which is a perfect match IMO.
H2 Bracket Installation
Here too, the only two machine screws included in the kit are used (ST12x3mm).
I also secure this mount with a piece of double-sided adhesive tape approximately 3x3cm in size. Integrating a third mounting point wasn't possible in my case, as this would have caused a compatibility issue with my existing "SPiNE" model.
Now the module can be slid into place and the tubes and cable are connected - done!
The feed and retraction controls are located from the top, behind the top edge of the printer. Everything is easily accessible, and I hope you like it!
The existing mounts don't suit your needs? But you could improvise a little yourself?
I've created two simplified basic mounts that you're welcome to remix! Check them out here:
https://makerworld.com/de/models/2576835-remixable-brackets-mim-tpu-feed-assist-housing#profileId-2841545
Boost Me
Best regards, Simon, MiM
License:
Standard Digital File License
Made.In.Meidling
