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Modular Japandi Snap-Clock System (Clock Kit 011) 3D Printer File Image 1
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Modular Japandi Snap-Clock System (Clock Kit 011)

bigjew92 avatarbigjew92

April 14, 2026

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Description

I wanted a minimalist, Japandi-style clock for my office, but I didn't want to be locked into a single design forever. So, I designed this modular "Snap-Clock" ecosystem.

Instead of printing a single massive clock, this system is split into two parts: a Central Hub that permanently houses the clock motor, and interchangeable magnetic Expansion Rings (the faces). You build the core once, and you can swap out the face in seconds to match your room.

 

Feel free to design your own faces and share with the community!

 

What's Included in this Project:

  1. 1. The Central Hub (The Core)

    > Unlike a lot of 3D-printed clocks that leave the motor exposed, this hub is 18mm thick to fully enclose larger 16mm high-torque clock modules. It has a 2mm solid front face and a hidden, snag-free wall mount on the back that is offset to perfectly clear the motor hardware.

  2. 2. The Desk Cradle (Optional)

    > A sleek, 15-degree angled stand if you prefer a desk clock over a wall clock. It’s widened specifically to hold the chunky rings in this set.

  3. 3. Face Style A: The Tray Face

    > A solid, heavy "gallery" style face. It has a 24mm raised outer rim and a deep 6mm recessed face with minimalist hour dashes. Looks amazing in matte earth tones.

  4. 4. Face Style B: The Floating Skeleton

    > A modern, architectural face. It uses 12 structural spokes as the hour markers and relies heavily on negative space. Whatever is behind the clock (your wall or desk) becomes part of the design.

 

Slicer & Printing Advice:

  1. The Desk Cradle: You MUST print this laying flat on its side (like a 'C' shape on the bed). This requires absolutely zero supports and makes the part structurally incredibly strong along the layer lines.
  2. The Hub & Rings: Print these flat on their backs. 15% Gyroid infill works great.
  3. The Skeleton Face: Because the print head travels across open air between the spokes, make sure your retractions are dialed in, or turn on "Avoid Crossing Perimeters" in your slicer to prevent stringing.

 

Assembly & Magnet Insertion:

  1. Inserting the Magnets: Place your Hub or Ring on a flat, sturdy surface. The holes are designed with tiny internal "crush ribs" to grab the magnet. Line the magnet up flat over the hole and press straight down firmly with your thumb. You should feel it gently crunch and lock into place.
  2. Handling Tolerances: All filaments shrink slightly differently. If the hole is too tight for your thumb, use the flat side of a ruler or a piece of scrap wood to press the magnet in evenly. If your magnets feel a little loose, just put a tiny drop of super glue (CA glue) in the hole before pressing them in to ensure they stay put.
  3. The "Polarity Key" (Crucial): When inserting your magnets, do not make them all face the same way. Alternate the polarity around the circle (North, South, North, South). Do the exact opposite for the Rings. This creates a magnetic "key." If you try to snap the ring on slightly crooked, the magnets will actually repel each other. It forces the 12 o'clock mark to snap into the exact top-center position every single time and stops the ring from spinning.
  4. Final Assembly: Once the magnets are in the Central Hub, install your clock motor and hands. Snap your chosen ring onto the front, slide the whole thing into the Desk Cradle (or hang it on the wall), and you are done.

License:

MakerWorld Exclusive License

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