Inmotion P6: Front Logo Light Replacement Lens

This is a direct replacement lens for the Inmotion P6 front logo light. I modeled this off the original housing geometry so it press-fits cleanly onto the factory light housing once the stock lens is removed.

 

The goal here was to clean up the look and improve light output. The internal geometry of this replacement lens includes small diffusion bumps with a front hex infill pattern that gives a subtle texture when both on or off. The top amber LEDs are still visible, so the top of the light will have an amber region (as pictured), but overall I think it looks much cleaner and brighter than the original lens design.

 

I printed mine in 3D Fuel PCTG Pro. Clear PETG should also work, and is the filament I associated in the attached profile (Bambu PETG Basic). If you do end up printing in PCTG Pro, please use the correct filament profile for it. The file is dimensioned around PCTG Pro shrink on a Bambu Labs X1 Carbon, so depending on your machine and material you may need to slightly scale it up/down - If someone tests this and confirms PETG sizing in the comments I will pin it for future info.

 

Disassembly Required: THIS WILL DESTROY THE ORIGINAL LENS!

 

Disassembly/Assembly Instructions:

1. Remove the logo light module from the EUC.
2. On the back of the light, scrape out the black RTV (silicone) covering the two screw heads. A small pick or flat screwdriver works.
3. Remove the two screws securing the lens.
4. The lens is still bonded in place with RTV. It will not come out cleanly or easily. You will need to destroy the old cover.
5. Using small snips, cut from the rear edge forward at each corner of the outer lens, and at the midpoint of each side. This creates 12 small outer “flaps.”
6. Grab each flap with pliers and peel it away from the housing. This breaks the outer structure so you can access the bond line. In the above images you can see my original lens with the snip marks and flaps removed.
7. Once the 12 flaps are removed, work a small screwdriver between the front lip of the lens and the housing. Slowly pry and slice through the RTV, working your way around the entire lens multiple times.
8. Take your time here. The goal is to remove the lens without damaging the housing, since you will reuse it. If necessary, push into the lens rather than the housing.
9. Once removed, clean off remaining RTV with your fingers or a plastic scraper. Be careful around the exposed LED PCB.

If you look at the replacement model, it matches the original lens geometry, which helps visualize where the bond line is during removal. RTV will be on both sides of the original housing channel, which means that some prying is necessary to break the lens free from the RTV on the inside of the housing.

 

Installation:

1. Print the replacement lens.
2. Apply a thin, even bead of clear silicone sealant inside the bottom of the outer channel of the new lens.
3. Press-fit the lens into place.
4. Reinstall the two screws.
5. Apply a small amount of silicone over the screw holes to reseal them.
6. If you use a sealant that off gasses during curing, you can temporarily peel back the small blue sticker on the rear of the housing to allow venting. Reseal it once fully cured.
7. Reinstall the light module on the EUC.

Notes:

• Obviously, this is not a reversible modification. The original lens will be destroyed during removal, and a replacement unit costs $50 from Inmotion. 
• Be careful not to damage the housing or LED board. Small gouges and deformation of the housing will likely be fine, just don't crack the main housing. 
• I kept the diffusion pattern as modifiable geometry in the print file. Feel free to edit it if you want. I tried to pick a style that balances diffusion with light output.
• You can also edit the infill pattern if you would like something other than the hexagon pattern. I feel like the hexagon pattern fits well with the geometry however.
• If you are using a test bench for powering the light in order to sample different infills or diffusion patterns, the light module runs at 12v, 100mA.

 

Boost MeBoosts are always appreciated for all of my models, I model things that I want to create or make better: boosts help that process.