I used a print profile with xy hole compensation but it may not be needed. I've used self tapping screws throughout and they're pretty forgiving
I recommend 3 walls and using supports; be sure to set the right colour support (under the supports tab) before printing and don't forget to remove the tiny supports from the counterbores on the lid
The radio icon on the front is a modifier in the lid object; be sure to set the colour or delete if preferred
Shouldn't need a brim
Other details
A small amount of filing/trimming may be needed to get the USB C connector to fit in the hole in the side of the case
It's designed to be a tight fit
Make sure it locates correctly in the hole before screwing down the mount as the board may not be sitting flat in the case
You will need to trim or desolder the pins from the SX-1262 board
I trimmed the pins flush with side cutters
I used double sided tape to mount the battery; make sure it's the thin stuff
The switch on the side is wired into the battery positive circuit; it's essentially a battery isolator so it needs to be on to charge
Charging is done via the nRF board using the USB C port and is pretty slow at 100 mA, but it gets there.
Wiring
Battery positive to switch outside pin
Switch middle pin to the nRF board's positive battery pad
Battery negative to the nRF board's negative battery pad
Materials
Lid screws are BT2.5 x 10 mm self tapping screws (x6)
Board holder screws are BT2 x 8 mm self tapping screws (x2)
Switch holder screws are BT2 x 10 mm self tapping screws (x2)
Double sided tape (the thin stuff) to hold the battery in
Bob The Printer
