Low Profile P2S Chamber Exhaust Fan Kit ver1.0

This is a lower profile Chamber Exhaust Fan than the official Bambu “P2S Chamber Exhaust Fan Kit”.  It uses the same $20 Bambu P2S chamber exhaust fan kit parts.

Though design may appear similar to the Original Bambu Chamber Exhaust Fan in some ways, it is an entirely different, scratch built design.  This design is not in any way associated with Bambu, so use this design at your own risk.  No warranties are given.

This project was a collaboration with MadMopar (over on MakerWorld).  MadMopar had the original idea for a lower profile exhaust duct for the P2S, ran multiple prototypes, provided suggestions and feedback to refine the design, and also provided all the images of the printed design.  So a big thanks goes out to MadMopar!  

PLEASE NOTE:  This profile does not include the poop chute shown in the pics (and the baseplate included here is not compatible with that poop chute design).  This model only includes a basic (flat) plate for the poop chute.  If you want to use Mc2.project3D's “Inspectable Waste Chute – Series P / X / H2” which is shown in the pics, you will be able to find a remixed backplate and slide which are compatible with that designat the link below (due to the MakerWorld Exclusive License):

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2920654-baseplate-only-for-the-inspectable-waste-chute#profileId-3267976

Between MadMopar and myself, many hours have been spent polishing the design, testing and improving it.  I feel it is completed, and the one of these ducts in operation currently (with the 2" duct) has been performing well.  But if you make or use this design and see anything that could be improved, please provide feedback (positive or negative).  I cannot guarantee that the changes will be made, but I will check the comments.  I don't own the P2S myself, so if you have a problem, providing pics and accurate measurements would be very helpful. 

Functionally, this design differs from the official Bambu Chamber Exhaust Fan design in the following key ways:

• This design has a lower overall profile, which can help in setups with limited room behind the printer.
• This design uses magnets to hold the duct on, instead of the latches on the stock Bambu design.  It was thought that the magnetic attachment would make the duct easier to install or remove when there is limited space behind the printer.
• This design shifts the whole Exhaust Fan to the left a few mm, which allows for more poop chute options.  This does however move the poop chute mount a bit away from the printer, which could be a problem with some poop chute designs (YMMV).
• This design has an optional TPU gasket, or can be used with 1/16" (1.58mm) thick foam tape, between the backplate and printer, to reduce air leakage.
• This design does not have room for a HEPA filter, which the official Bambu Chamber Exhaust design does allow for.  This design is strictly for venting the chamber either outside or to a separate air cleaner.
• This design is a bit more complex and expensive to build, since it uses 16x 10x3mm cylinder magnets to hold the duct on, and requires more filament. 

Currently there are only ducts for a 2" or 2.5" (inside diameter) hose, with options for ducts that angle out at 45°, 90° and straight out from the printer.  The 2.5" ducts are untested, and you can find them at the following link:

https://www.printables.com/model/1754424-25-ducts-for-bambu-p2s-and-p1-exhaust-see-descript

I may add additional ducts in the future, but I plan to upload the STEP models for this design to help with remixing the design. 

I may upload this in the future to MakerWorld, so I kindly ask that you please do not upload this design to MakerWorld.  Thanks for understanding.  

To build this, the following hardware is needed (in addition to the Bambu P2S Exhaust Fan Kit):

• 2x M3x20 FHCS (Flat Head Cap Screws)
• 2x M3x14 (upto 20mm long) FHCS
• 4x M5x10 Self-Tapping Case Fan Screws
• 16x 10x3mm Cylinder Magnets
• 1/16" foam tape (optional) and not needed if using the TPU Gasket
• Superglue

Printing:

There are two main profiles available for the main parts.  One of the main profiles is set up for ABS and uses brims and mouse ears to help with bed adhesion.  The other main profile is set up with PETG, and does not use brims.  Both profiles use a textured build plate, however both also specify an Engineering Plate for the optional TPU gasket.  The Engineering Plate for TPU is just a suggestion, but I recommend using a smoother plate with glue as a release agent, since TPU tends to aggressively stick to the textured plates.

There are additional profiles for the 2" ducts.  Any future duct sizes will also have a separate profile.

The image below shows the layout of the profile.  The only options, aside from the TPU gasket, are the three L-Clip choices.  The L-Clips mount into the baseplate, and help to hold the vent fan to the back of the printer, along with 2 screws around the poop chute.  The L-Clips are available in different lengths, depending on how the vent fan is configured.  There are different L-Clip sizes for using 1/16" foam tape, the optional TPU gasket, or no tape and no TPU gasket (which will probably allow more leakage of air).  

These options are described below the image:

Referring to the above image, the L-Clip options are:

A. L-Clips used with 1/16" foam tape (plate 04)

B. L-Clips used without the foam tape or TPU gasket (plate 05) 

C. L-Clips used with the TPU gasket on plate 06 (plate 04)

The 3mf profiles included were set up using Bambu Studio v2.7.1.57 and include the following:

• 92mm_Fan_Cover_v95_PETG_no_Ducts.3mf (base profile without brims, for PETG)
• 92mm_Fan_Cover_v95_ABS_w_BRIMS_no_Ducts.3mf (base profile with brims, for ABS)
• v6Z_2in_Ducts_only.3mf (45°, 90°, dual, and straight through 2" ducts)
• V1F_2-5in_Ducts.3mf  (UNTESTED 45°, 90°, and straight through 2" ducts)

The individual STEP models will be added later, when the license is changed to allow for remixing.

Assembly:

1. First decide if you plan to use the optional TPU cover, or 1/16" foam tape before gathering the parts.  This will determine which type of L-hook is used, and which plates need to be printed.  See the above information under “Printing” to decide which size L-Clips you need to use.
    

2. Start by installing the L-Clips into the baseplate.  These will need a bit of glue to hold them in place.

3. Next, remove the two screws around the poop chute.  These will be re-installed in the following steps, through the baseplate.
    

4. If the TPU cover (shown in orange) is going to be used, install it on the baseplate:

5. Install the baseplate onto the back of the printer.  First start the right side L-Clip hooks in the corresponding holes on the printer metal backplate, then start the left side hooks.  When both are in place and the baseplate will sit flush to the printer, slide the baseplate leftward until it stops.  At this point the holes on the plate should align with the holes for the screws around the poop chute which were removed in step 3.  These two screws can now be re-installed through the baseplate to help secure it to the printer.
    

6. Install 8 of the 10x3 cylinder magnets into the cover as shown.  Pay special attention to the polarity of these magnets, and how they are installed, so they will attract the magnets which will be installed in the duct.  It can help to mark one pole of the magnets with a sharpie before starting, so there is a visual indicator of their polarity.  I recommend installing the magnets so the poles are all pointed in the same direction, which will make things easier later.  A drop of superglue will help secure them.

7. Install the fan into the cover of the printer, using the M5x10 self-tapping fan screws. Make sure the fan power cable wraps either around the top or bottom side of the fan, and will not become pinched.
    
8. Connect the fan cable to the board from the P2S Exhaust Fan Kit.
    

9. Use the 3 screws included with the P2S Exhaust Fan Kit to install the board into the cover.

10. You can use the small wire management slot (circled in green) to manage the extra wire.

11. Double check that the wiring is connected and none of the fan wires are pinched (or will get pinched during the next assembly steps).
     

12. Install the cover (with the fan and board previously installed) onto the baseplate using the M3 flat head screws:

13. Install 8 of the 10x3mm cylinder magnets into the fan duct.  Pay special attention to the polarity of the magnets here, since they should all be set up to attract the magnets already installed in the fan cover.   It may help to set the magnets onto the fan cover magnets, prior to installing, so you can verify they will attract and not repel.  If your magnets are not all set up as north or south on the fan cover and duct, be sure to orient the duct in the final position before installing magnets in it, otherwise it may attract on some and repell on others.  It can also help to mark one pole of the magnets with a sharpie before starting, so there is a visual indicator of their polarity.  A drop of superglue may help them stay.
     

14. Install the duct onto the fan cover.

Please provide feedback on this design (positive or negative), so it can be improved, thanks! 

Other Stuff:
 

If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints.

You can find the other things I'm working on at my blog here.  You can also follow me here on Printables or on MakerWorld, to see what new stuff I post. 

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Changelog:

6/11/2026: Uploaded version v95 to Printables.

6/23/2026:  Uploaded to MakerWorld.