Model sits at about 17cm.
I found the original model was quite big, it had a very large base that I found wasteful and was excessively difficult to print without a lot of face blemishes, so I've gone ahead and made the following changes:
- Scaled parts 70% of the original
- Added dowel holes the size of 1.75mm filament for all parts except the sword
- Cut the model in appropriate places fore easier printing and overhangs
- Removed a large portion of the base
- Removed the other character 9S
Things to note:
- There are five plates consisting of 2 body plates parts and 1 for base parts, the body parts have options like legs (clothes or no skirt), and head (mask or no mask).
- I have the unscaled parts in an unprintable state off the plates, there is also a slot in the original base for 9s, but the part for that can be found on thingiverse. I really didn't want to include that as the model is behind 2b and you will print it to not be seen
- Body parts are intended to be used with a 0.2mm nozzle
- Base parts are intended to be used with a 0.4mm nozzle
- Be mindful with your supports, I did manually paint on supports but I realise everyone will have a different printer and filament so I left automatic supports on, this model will really test your print quality, and if it's not good then you will have a tough time removing supports. You may need to tune your support contact Z distances
- most of the dowel holes on connecting parts allow easy merging of the cut parts however you will want to look into your elephant foot compensation if needed, I used super glue on and around the dowel holes. Most cut models utilise more than one dowel so orientation is locked, however I could not fit a dowel hole of 1.75mm diameter on the sword, but it's a small part and is easily glue together
- for the dowl, use small cuts of filament (1.75mm diameter)
- not all dowel hole depths are the same, push a bit of filament in to gauge depth then snip off about the same depth for the other parts dowel holes
- The unscaled original plates have been kept from the original stl parts
- I painted on UV curable resin, and did a second coat on parts I wanted super smooth like her skin, and leather boots, but left one coat on the fabric to keep the texture there. You can also spray on polyurethane like plastikote, or paint on epoxy. Just make sure to keep the connecting dowel joints free otherwise the fit won't be tight
The pictures uploaded don't include the sword because I was stupid and accidentally painted and polished the 100% scale sword instead of the 70% sword which is printing right now, I will upload a finished photo when it's done :-)
You are very welcome to play with the parts, let me know if you have any suggestions and be sure to upload your make. Thanks !
Orbital
