Saab 9-3 and 900 stereo fascia with cupholder

Hello.

First of all. I made this for me, but I think this can be useful to other saabists. Wanted to put a 1 din stereo and cupholder without paying for OEM cupholder.

DISCLAMER: This design have a flaw, and it is the right stalk touch the cupholder when you are going to use, It's usable. Made the design with only measurements and I don't take in consideration the proximity of the stalk.

Made two versions, one it's the original, that barely touch the right stalk when you open the cupholder (only when opening), and the non OCD complaint versión that doesn't touch the right stalk when open the cupholder, in each cases, the right stalk touch the cupholder when you use to put the wipers. But again, its usable.

If you think it's very useful for you and want to thank me, here it's my PayPal. https://www.paypal.me/juanfeito

Some questions answered.

It's strong?

yes

NON ocd version

OCD version

Whats its the purpose of the hole and two switches… For whatever you want. The 5mm hole its intended to fit 5mm led for knocks.

What's about RHD cars? I think you can mirror the parts.

BOM

• 28 - 10x2mm magnets (you can assemble without that, but this ensures the cupholder it's closed/in place when opened more firmly) 
• Voron spec heatinsert, M3 5OD 4mm lenght
• A lot of M3 bolts. (try to edit this with more info, used M3x6 to M3x20
• ABS/ASA recomended, but if you cant print you can use PETG if you use enogh perimeters.
• TPU for cupholder petals, 95A it's okay, I used this amazon basic filament.
• Because you will surely ask me , Mouse pad from the former Yugoslavia
• Phone holder (I have plans to design my own phone holder, but at this moment you need to buy one)
• Voltimeter with usb ports or whatever you want.

Bolt list (not exact)

1* M3x6
2* M3x8
10* Mx10
3* M3x12
8* M3x16 (some can be M3x18)
6* M3x20
12* M3 nuts

PRINTING

All parts are printed with (except the ball mount):

• 0.20mm layer height 
• 6 top/down layers
• 4 perimeters
• One perimeter on top layers (PRusa slicer 2.8)
• 20% infill
• Organic supports at 20º

It's mandatory to proper calibrate your printer/filament, ABS/ASA without fibers has shrink about 0.7-1%.

Print 100mm piece, leave overnight and measure when cold and put the % of shrink in this option (Prusa Slicer 2.8, and Superslicer since years ago)

If you have struggles to print the big pieces you can use gluestick, it's magical.

Printed all pieces with Eryone ASA and Eryone PETG+CF (visible parts)

If you struggle with TPU, there its the parameters I used to print without stringing.

• Prusa mk3s
• Nozzle X 
• 0.20 quality profile 
• 0.2mm z hop 
• 2mm retraction 
• 20mm/s retraction speed 
• 220ºC nozzle 
• 50ºC bed 
• 100%  print fan

The pone holder ball it's encouraged to print with 0.10/0.15mm layer height. for better quality and control

If your bridging it's good you can disable supports for cupholder frame.

Voltimeters

You can use the one you want. It fit all within 46x27mm

Print orientations

ASSEMBLY

Used a photos of all stages of the development, some ones can show a slightly different printed parts, its okay, because I made a lot of improvements.

Put heatinserts on handle and cupholder cover

Before assemble you need to put in the magnets, the same direction on each side, each side holds 5 magnets. No glue needed, it stay in place.

Now you can assemble the handle on the cupholder cover (M3x8), and the front frame parts with M3X12.

Now you has this.

Now put the can holder in place, it has only a unique position, take care with that, if you put reverse you can't collapse it.

Now you need to assemble the other part of the cupholder. You need the flexible part, and the top/down big parts of the cupholder. and 8 magnets (4 each side). Put in the down part 4 magnets in each pocket, you need to orientate to repel the front magnets (reverse).

Put the flexible part within the down part.

Now put the top part.

Now put the bolts, from left to right.

M3x10 , M3x12, M3x16 (4), M3x6 (the far right without bolt)

Attach and assemble the cupholder stopper with two hex nuts. Then put the first part that we assembled on the long bolts and assemble with 4 hex nuts.

Now pick the sliders. Fit 4 M3x16 bolts, and 2 M3x20 bolts for the back. This bolts will be used to adjust the cupholder if you dont have a even cubby. Take in consideration, two versions of the sliders can be mounted, the OCD and non OCD version hehehe.

(Non OCD here)

Fit with 4 hex nuts.

OCD trigger version here

Now you have the cupholder assembled.

Time to put some heat inserts on the front frame.

Assemble the front frame with cupholder frame.

You need to use 9x M3x10 bolts

Now we need to pick the cupholder lock plate / switch plate, put 5 magnets in each side like the photo, now without reversing  put into the small pockets of the cupholder lock plate.

Then put some heat insert on magnet holders and fit into the pockets like the photo.

You will notice this is NON OCD / OCD safe version, the OCD trigger version has the left side different.

Fit on the frame, on top of the cupholder frame, the led hole go to the left.

NON OCD version

OCD Trigger version

The magnets fit in place the cupholder when closed because they are atracting, but when you open the cupholder the magnets of the lock plate repel the magnets of the cupholder top/down parts.

Screw from the back with 4* M3x20 bolts.

Time to assemble the phone holder.

Use a m3x10 bolt to join the two parts. (no heat insert used)

Time to put a heated insert here.

Fit in place. and Screw from the back using the phone holder lock printed part.

Time to put the voltimeter/whatever you want in place.

Simply slide in.

Installation

Put your stereo with the 1 din cage in the down part of the dash. (yes, my stereo its reversed in photo, sorry)

Fit the parts and push until it's in place.

Now you can fit the phone holder on the ball.

Enjoy