Fabric purse

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2026-1-18

I saw many attempts to print this purse with silk filament.  This isn't easy, silk filament have poor adhesion between layers which is important for links between tiles.  Now the latest profile supports print the purse with a shiny silk tile face.

 

I changed the face and bottom of each tile to silk PLA, and keep the filament in the middle as PLA Basic.  This makes the purse looks shiny and still have the strength of PLA basic.   The top and bottom pattern is also changed to concentric to make it reflex beautifully.

 

The loop piece for strape has been changed so you will see a nice finish line on the edge, I highly suggest print the loop instead of the 3D printed strap, and pick a strap of your like.

 

Print guide: build plate adhesion is very important.  I recently use Bambulab engineering plate and apply a thin layer of liquid glue, then wipe it evenly with a piece of wet cloth.  This is super effective for flex fabric and I didn't met a single failure.  The smooth face of engineering plate also make the silk filament really shine.  After printing, wait till the build plate fully cool down, then bend the plate from each direction to loose the piece.  If some piece won't go off, gentlely nudge the piece from the side to loosen it.  If it still won't go, soak plate in water to dessolve the glue and the fabric will come off after a while.

 

Installation guide: Install connector could be repetitive, take a rest once after a while.  Also print the ‘connector installer’ in profiles, they make connector installation much easier with less finger strain.

 

The corner connectors are harder, the tip is bend the connectors on both sides of the corner, this makes connector much easier to be insert into slots.

2025-3-15

I made a strap for this purse.  Note if you want to install printed strap then you should not install loop.   Loops is for seperately purchased strap.

Original

This 3D printed purse has the size of an ipad mini 6, and has two loops on the top to attach a strap to.   It has a lid so items inside won't be plainly visible.

 

This purse use the slot/insert system I designed so it could extend 3D printed fabric to various applications.  In this make, both the loop and connectors has inserts on it so they can be installed on the fabric with a unified interface.   See my other makes https://makerworld.com/zh/models/550291#profileId-477241 https://makerworld.com/zh/models/580850 if you are interested in the slot/insert system for 3D printed fabric applications.

 

In this making, I used a technique called regional regidity which makes the main compartment of the purse more rigid and feels like leather.  And the lid feels more floopy.  This makes the purse could hold heavy things such as a small tablet.

 

In case you need to test with other types of filament, use these 8x8 test blocks https://makerworld.com/zh/models/582881#profileId-504011 which takes much less time to print.

 

This purse is implemented with openscad.

 

If you like my ‘slot/insert’ system, boost, show your make, or leave a comment or suggestion or ideas.  Your like will be my drive.

MembershipCommercial license available for sellers.

Build steps:

Caution: this making need some intermediate knowledge about slicer.
this making can be fragile and might break under certain force with some small piece fall out, don't give it to little kids.

 

1. Print purse_front.pix.stl and purse_back.pix.stl models.  This would print two fabric pieces.  Use layer height 0.28mm with 0.4mm nozel
2. Print connector2.3mf models.  This would print all the connectors and loops.  Layer height 0.2mm

3. Use connector2 to connect two pieces together according to the picture below. Need to use some force to press. You can use something with flat bottom to help i.e. benchy. Note: connect2 is not symmetric but its okay if different connectors are installed in different direction, its hard to notice.

4. Use connector2 to connect the side of the bag together. This needs some force, and need right angle. Note don't misalign the pieces. Once connector2 is clipped inplace, its extremely hard to pull it out and you might damage the fabric by doing so. My experience is install all the connectors on one of the fabric piece, then clip the other piece with connector using thumb and index finger.

    

   The first connector near the bottom is especially hard, because the angle limit.  Becareful not to break it with too much force.  My experience is use something to push the side of slot a little.  Then press it from the inside against table.  Once the angle is right it could get in.

    

   Note: the connector2 is visible from outside as a seam, if you print connector2 with the same color as fabric itself, it will blend in.  If you print them with different color with contrast, it will stand out.  Both can work.

5. Install loops.  You may need to use force at the correct angle.  It is tricky but is easy when its correct.  If you decide to install printed loop, then DO NOT install loops.  Instead, install one end of the strap on place where the loop is installed.  Then carefully check for knots and TWISTS on the strap.  Then install the other end of the strap.  Misinstalled strap is hard to fix.

6. Your purse is done and you can add shoulder strap at your like.

Notes:

• First layer is important and you need good bed adhesion. But I didn't use glue. If you plan to use glue, beware if the fabric adhere too good it might break when you tear it from the bed.
• Even if the first layer does not look good, I don't suggest stop printing immediately, it is very annoying trying to remove hundreds of single layer small tile. I'd prefer to wait for several layers before stop.
• From my experiement on Bambulab P1S with PLA basic, the best layer hight for fabric is 0.28 (for best strength) and connector is 0.2mm.