August 23, 2024
Description
Introducing a new member of the Hurrilink family, the Hurrilink Sidecar! The Hurrilink allows easy attachment of a NEO 1.1 Motor and SparkMax controller from REV Robotics into a single, compact motor/controller package. All motor leads and, importantly, encoder cable are shielded from damage and pull-out. One needs only to attach CAN or PWM control and provide 12v power.
Check out the original Hurrilink (Top Mount) here:
https://www.printables.com/model/481577-3171-hurricanes-hurrilink
This packaging is meant to mimic the form factor of the popular, but more expensive and difficult to obtain Falcon 500 motor which includes an integrated controller. However, the Falcon is not user repairable and a motor or controller failure bricks the entire unit. The Hurrilink is user serviceable, and despite the bulk of separate motor and controller, ¼" shorter in the motor shaft axis than a Falcon V3!
This print is support free! Two breakaway tabs are built into the model, but it is designed to print at a 45 degree angle for strength and no internal supports. PETG is recommended material as it has greater flexibility, layer adhesion, resistance to creep deformation, and 10c higher glass transition temp than most PLA products. 0.6 nozzle/0.3 layer height will result in a 4.5hr print, 0.4 nozzle/.24 layer height about 8hrs.
Notice: This STL is in inch units (Imperial). If you add this to your slicer software and it appears tiny, try importing this in imperial (inch) units. Prusaslicer will usually autodetect this. If your slicer does not have imperial settings, scale the model 2540% in every axis. This will convert inches to millimeters.
Assembly Instructions
The raw print. The first step is to remove the built in support tabs in the wire guide of the motor base.
Pliers make this easier, but they can be snapped by hand.
Gather your parts. Required are:
Begin by stripping all the tri-colored motor and controller leads as pictured. Strip length for 221 WAGO is 11mm (3/8"). Twist lightly to prevent fraying.
Insert long encoder cable first
Pull encoder through and carefully insert HV power leads, keeping them in order and not twisted.
Pull through while keeping wire bundle aligned with wire recess.
Pull all the way through while pushing motor into tapered recess to seat.
Insert 3/8" 10-32 screw into top of assembly and tighten. Check that shaft spins freely. The screw, if too long can contact the shaft as it is designed for support for press fitting to motor shaft. Make sure motor leads are not touching each other as this causes internal resistance while hand spinning.
Attach WAGOs (or crip fittings) to motor side. Twisting while pushing into the WAGOs in the same direction as your initial twist helps seat the wires.
Connect WAGOs or crimps to controller HV supply leads, matching colors. Tug connections to ensure proper seating in either connector. Make sure no wire whiskers are exposed outside connectors.
Carefully insert encoder cable with the guiding rails face up and push firmly into controller until seated.
Like so.
Now the tricky part, packing the full length wires. This requires a special “Z” packing configuration to fit. Begin by pushing the wire bundle into the left recess, as far as it will go, looks like this.
Push the bundle of connectors straight back, keeping the bundle tucked into the left of the controller. The wire bundle will make a “Z” in the wire recess.
Push the WAGOs into the right recess as far as they will go. They are rigid and must go in this area. You can insert the encoder cable first to keep it organized, then stack the WAGO connections on top. It will look like this when packed.
Continue to coil wires around and press into center space.
Insert controller from front, sliding backwards. Wires will look like this, you can poke a finger in to push them down to make a bit more space but there is clearance at the back for the wire bend radius.
Continue to push back, but do not force. If you encounter heavy resistance, pull controller out forward and repack wires.
Once controller has reached this point, simply push down and it will lock behind the center tab. The wing detents will snap in and secure it from the top. This is the click-lock double retention.
Congrats, you're done! To remove controller for maintenance, reverse assembly. Push rear of controller up ¼", and pull straight out.
Design improvements over the base Hurrilink include exposing controller corners slightly to make hand removal easier. Simply push up with a thumb or pull with fingers.
Best of luck in 2023/2024 from the 3171 Hurricanes
License:
Standard Digital File License
jdfletch
