AMS Hub relocator, up and over.

AMS, Hub, relocation, re-alignment setup.

First, I apologize to the one who printed and installed the "AMS Hub PTFE to connector interference." An afterthought made me think of a better solution. It is to relocate the AMS Hub. Put it where it should be. Dah! In the same token, add an intake guide.

This solution is much more elegant and solves (3) sources of alignment issues.

-Put the PTFE line in alignment (Make it a quick PTFE release).

-PTFE output "injector tube" (Guide and quick release for the PTFE).

-PTFE output Interference with the 4 pins connector (No more need for a guide).

At the same time, I did add two cable managements. That's the French Elegance thing.

And to top that, I designed it with all the disconnects you need for all the PTFE.

It's a more challenging project, especially if you print and install a new hob cover (by Ten Minute Tech)

https://makerworld.com/en/models/60012#profileId-62112

There are (4) magnets with springs under the PCB, and they are fighters, be aware. It is worth the pain.

The stuff you need.

The "Relocating plate" needs to be tapped M3, two places, or if you would like to put a heat insert or add nuts pockets, tapping is fast and easy and works for me.

- (2) Button heads (or how head) M3 x 8mm to fix the relocating plate to the printer. SHCS M3 x 8 could do, but the heads are narrow.

The AMS Hub is installed with the same screws.

It would be best to have about 10# of courage.

I did add the PTFE injector tube guide to the kit.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/59576#profileId-61632

That works fantastic and keeps things in line and center.

The installation is quite simple.

-Turn the printer off, and unscrew the AMS hub. (Two M3 long screws). If you print a new AMS Hub cover, it's the time to do so.

-Keep the 4-pin and 6-pin wires connected and pass the wires in the grooves on the back side of the AMS Hub relocating plate.

-Install the Relocating plate with the two M3 x 8 in holes 3mm with a c'bore. Make sure you don't pinch the wires in the back.

-install the AMS Hub with the BBL-provided screws into the hole you tap M3 on the relocating plate.

-Install the "T" guide on the Injection tube, then insert the PTFE on the output port, and slide the T-guide in place as per pictures.

-One at a time, Slide in the 10x55 Intake alignment tube and snap the retaining "C" clip. 4x See pictures.

-insert the AMS PTFE tube.

And Voila, something that helps a lot.

Sagging or me-align PTFE going in or out of the AMS Hub was the #1 cause of printing error, after fixing the AMS filament feeding. This addresses all the issues I could find. Plus, give the wires a "home," making things nice and tight back there.

Also, in the picture, there's the cap on the tensioner, which is a must-have see alexfehr1987. Excellent work.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/47687#profileId-49484

Oh there, my "Y" 3-way splitter on it. I got to plug myself, too…

https://makerworld.com/en/models/57663#profileId-59427

You can add a "Bambu AMS PTFE Buffer Block". Good design, it's not mandatory, but it can't hurt.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/52179#profileId-53992

Don't you have some printing to do? Go, that would be more fun than reading my stuff…