October 1, 2024
Description
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Update 01/09/2024: Tested new 5º degree tilt, removes almost all reflections that comes thru rear windscreen.
Update 31/08/2024: When testing I see some reflections due screen angle, need to test a new version with corrected screen angle to avoid the reflections that comes thru rear glass.
I needed a screen that reads obd parameters and doesn't want to put a typical mount with sticker on the dash (also in the future, the main goal it's injection via canbus the analog signals to the ultragaugefrom custom sensors using raspberry Pi or arduino).
If you think it's very useful for you and want to thank me, here it's my PayPal. https://www.paypal.me/juanfeito
This integration requires drilling, soldering and modifing your car/ultragauge.
I made this for the center vents, but it's think it's fine for the side vents too.
If your grill it's in good condition you can use this remover that I design, https://www.printables.com/model/979779-mr2-zzw30-vent-removal-tool , if not… you need a flat screwdriver with duct tape to pull out the grill.
The grill has one 5mm pin on each side 2-3mm deep into the ducts.
I designed the pad to fit into dash holes.
Use supports for “pad dpad and button assembly” and “pad dpad and button assembly” , 3 perimeters, print two buttons, you need one, but you may will broke the first one ;)
Put the switches in the same position as the photo, and cut the PCB using the “O” line as guide. Next, cut the left side of the pcb (trim the unused pcb).
Drill with 2.1-2.3mm using the holes as guide.
Solder wires to the switches from the back.
Cut with pliers these walls and clean the stringing you found inside.
Fit the PCB into “Pad body dash insert”, orientate the pcb to use the same holes you drill before. The M2x8 screws direct screw onto plastic parts. Put also the rear cover.
Put a zip tie to immobilize the wires.
The cover simply slides and click.
Put the connectors you want to the wires. My recommendation it's to put two connectors , one with two pins for menu button and other with 4 pins for updown dpad.
First of all, test your ultragauge before modifying. ;)
Open carefully your ultragauge, you can use a flatscrew driver twisting it on the gaps.
Now you need to solder the wires for the switches and the OBD communication, for this you can simply cut the OEM cable and put a connector, you need to do this because OBD connector doesn't fit trought 16mm hole ahahahahaha.
In my case used ethernet cable wiring.
I attached the original cables with heat shrink tube to remember te colours better. You need to solder the wires for the switches like the photo.
Now, In order to avoid the abs light flashing when put the ignition, need to disconnect the ABS pins, in my case used a multimeter to search the cable to disconnect. Check yours, in my case was the blue cable but in yours can be other.
Check both ABS pins, in my case was the right ABS pin of the photo (not the pointed one).
Respect the printing orientation, with this you achieve the best aesthetics. Use tree support for best results.
EDIT: 01/09/2024, the new version prints in the same orientation, the flat part towards the bed.
Use 4-5 perimeters, you want to do resitant.
Put the heat inserts on the parts.
Put tape to protect the Flex from the LCD. I used kapton tape, its perfect.
Slide the LCD on “pod fascia” part
Now if you want, with the LCD fitted on the printed part you can put coloured PVC sheets. to change the screen colour, I used yellow one and orange one, put in sandwitch.
Now, slide the fascia into pod body part.
It only has one position, the “bridge” part of the pod body part accommodates the LCD and makes the pcb stay in place.
Screw the M3x8 bolts.
Put the pod rear housing on the back and screw with M3x8 bolts, take care with the cable routing.
The pod rear cover - flex part it's intended to put when you are fitting on the car, need to be printed in TPU, nothing special.
Print with heat resistant material, I used PC blend, AND may work. This plug it's to avoid heat on the back of the PCB of the ultragauge and isolate it.
At least 5 perimeters.
The rope/cord it's intended to fit correctly the plug and aid to remove in the future if you need.
Put cord with laces and some nuts to fit in place. Then glue the cover
Print the hole cover in TPU, with one perimeter and 0% infill. You need to make it soft to aid in their fitting. Use 0.15mm layer height.
Remove the cluster from the dash.
Use the 16mm bit to make a hole thru the plastic parts.
The hole cover needs to be fitted like the photo, the photo its only for show only, it's better to pass the wiresthru the hole cover before fitting (it's easier to pass thru the wires).
The hole cover from the vent its better to fit after pass the wires.
There are two hole covers, the trimmed version is intended for the vent in case if you drill to near to the pod or the plug.
Before pass the wiring we need to fit the vent plug. Press into the hole, when both sides are inside the vent, pull the rope to fit in place.
Now you can fit all the plugs and connect your wiring, Now you can fit the rear cover (flex)
Because doesn't have much space, when you fit the pod pull the from the wiring to make room behind. Fit the button
License:
BY-NC
Jon
