Boost MeIf you like this model, a boost is very welcomed.
This is an essential accessory for anyone working with a soldering iron because it helps avoid poisonous fumes entering your respiratory system. Other than moving away those nasty fumes this system uses some 10mm x 130mm x 130mm carbon filter pads (Aliexpress affiliate link) to capture some of the toxic substances in the smoke.
The extractor can be placed in two positions, depending on the soldering task you are dealing with: laying flat for detailed/tiny parts or standing up for coarser activities.
The whole thing is battery powered so you don't have to deal with another cable cluttering your desk.
Remixing
I fully embrace the remixing movement and I will also welcome any suggestion or critique you might have, but I kindly ask to not remove the logo present on this model as it represents my maker team: we are proud of our work and we just ask for this tiny recognition in exchange.
Versions
Pick the print profile depending on what hardware you have at hand:
Version / Profile
Bolt type (4x)
Additional hardware (4x)
M4 inserts
M4 x 30+ mm
M4 brass inserts
M4 nuts
M4 x 35+ mm
M4 nuts
M3 inserts
M3 x 30+ mm
M3 brass inserts
M3 nuts
M3 x 35+ mm
M3 nuts
The first option is probably preferable, but friends at my local maker lab have had satisfying results with any of the above.
UPDATE
I've added STL models in the M3 and M4 folders using the postfix no-lcd for non-portable versions which do not require a battery or an LCD, instead relying on a direct USB to 12V buck-boost module (Aliexpress affiliate link).
Electronics
Other than the two printed parts, the assembly hardware and some standard tools like a soldering iron, here is a list of what you need:
Wiring is quite simple, can be even simpler if you use a couple of those basic screw connectors at the two junction points (depicted below as circles):
A brief explanation of the wiring:
the fan is wired only and directly to the step-up module output terminals: if you happen to have a 3 or 4 wires fan, then you can focus the red and black wires and leave the other two wires unconnected
the battery negative terminal is connected (lines in black in the diagram) to the ground or negative terminal of every other component, except for the fan
the battery positive terminal is connected (lines in red in the diagram) to the charging module and the switch (if you have a 3-pin switch, use the central one)
once the switch is turned on power is sent (via the lines depicted in dashed red) to the step-up module and the LCD
Assembly instructions
Let's start with a few general suggestions:
keep the wires short, don't exaggerate on length as the space is limited
you do not need a huge wire gauge as the currents involved are quite limited: a 28AWG wire is more than sufficient
Steps
If you opted for the brass inserts, this is the right time to hot-slide them in, if you went for the nuts, then pushing those in their place is helpful, maybe a tiny bit of glue might help keep those tiny bastards where they should be
Solder two wires (approx 6cm in length) to the battery charger module and use some double-sided tape to put it in place and check the charging cable can easily be connected
Solder the fan wires to the step-up module output terminals, ensuring the wire length is enough to allow assembly but not too long to make closing the case impossible
Solder two wires to the battery holder, place your 18650 Li-Ion battery of choice in it and find the correct way to slide the whole thing in place: different holders might require different orientations, I checked 4 different types, but I don't have the entire Shenzen production line out of my door
Solder two more wires to the input terminals of the step-up module then, if you are using one of those variable output versions, ensure the output voltage is properly set to 12V using the battery as input and a multimeter at the output terminals. Once satisfied, use a piece of double-sided tape to put the module in place
Solder two wires to the switch, in case you have a 3-pin switch you will use the central and either one of the other two pins. Place the switch in place using the nut to lock it: the nut must be tight, but remember you are dealing with plastic and using too much force is going to squish it and break it
Solder two more wires to the LCD and push it in place: friction should be sufficient to keep the display in place, but if you want to be extra confident, a bit of hot glue or another type of adhesive might be your friend
Shorten all the wires to their minimum length and join them accordingly to the diagram above using the method you prefer: soldering, crimping or screw terminals doesn't really matter, but remember space is a constraint
It's time to test everything: from charging the battery to having the fan properly spinning
This is your last step: squeeze all the wires in those gaps and screw in the bolts!
rlogiacco
