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Overlapping multiboard: connect several into one 3D Printer File Image 1
Overlapping multiboard: connect several into one 3D Printer File Image 2
Overlapping multiboard: connect several into one 3D Printer File Image 3
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Overlapping multiboard: connect several into one 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Overlapping multiboard: connect several into one 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
Overlapping multiboard: connect several into one 3D Printer File Thumbnail 6

Overlapping multiboard: connect several into one

駄目g avatar駄目g

November 1, 2024

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Description

Version 3. 

A small improvement: all internal corner tiles have full diamonds. This version is fully compatible with version 2.

 

Introduction

Multiboard panels are designed to be connected using large, intrusive connectors. These panels, on the other hand, can be screwed together to create one single large panel. This is a remix of the original panels.

 

This is useful for several reasons:

  1. If you have a small printer (A1 mini) you can cover large sections without the waste of multiboard connectors
  2. Of course, you don't need the multiboard connectors to connect panels to each other
  3. The larger panel can span over an empty area (thus you don't need a large printer to achieve the same). 
  4. Reduces the number of holes you might need to make on the wall to mount it. You can place screws where you need them (you can use M2 to screw through the connecting bolts)
  5. They look nicer

Warning (how to print):

Make sure to orient the panels such that they don't need supports. This is already done in the Bambulab's project files. If you download the individual STL files, you will have to rotate the “tops”.

How to create a super-panel:

In order to have perfect overlapping you must connect tops to bottoms only. If you connect two panels of the same type to each other, the result will not be perfectly flushed (but it will be ok).

All component panels should be of the same size (do not mix 8x8 with 6x6 ones).

 

Bottom panels have all diamonds of one side cut-off. In the photos below the blacks are bottoms and the cutoff diamonds are at the top-edge. 

 

The headless bolts require an M3 hex key. Note that they have an orientation (bottom is flat, top has a conical cut to facilitate the insertion of the hex key).

 

The orientation of the panels is very important. I recommend you print 4 of the tiny panels and play with them, so you get a feeling of how the tessellation works.

 

There are two different types of tiles: bottoms and tops. Bottoms have one side cropped:

 

 

 

Tiles have to be properly oriented to make sure the threads align perfectly. We will keep the orientation such that the cropped tile of the bottoms is always to the left. In addition, every tile has a label that indicates the bottom left corner (what I also call South West corner). For example, this is the label of the Bottom: 

Both types of tiles (bottoms and tops) are missing two diamonds. The bottoms should be placed with the half-diamonds facing down  (thus the name) and the tops should have their half diamonds facing up. In addition, tops should be aligned such that the side with 2 missing diamonds is South, while the bottoms have the side with 2 missing diamonds facing North. See picture below, whites are tops and blacks are bottoms.

 

 

 

You can start putting them together. This way the threads will align perfectly and the bolts should thread easily.

You should see a perfectly flushed connection. If it is not, then something is wrong. Make sure the threads and diamonds surfaces are clean from debris. I am using big bolts to show where I have connected them, but you will be using the headless bolts:

 

and this is how they should look, perfectly flushed:

Notes:

  1. These panels are 6.5 mm thick
  2. Place bolts wherever you think it is necessary. If you mount your multiboard to the wall, some screws can be used to keep the tiles connected.

In order to have perfect tessellation all “internal” panels must be square. If you need a panel of a size that is not a multiple of the tiles you are using, simply trim the panel in the slicer to fit your needs (e.g. create subpanels of 8x3) but only attach them at the edge of the “super-panel”. Remember, orientation is important, thus pay attention to which sides you trim.

This might sound complicated, but once you print some panels it will become obvious why.

 

Accessories

Check my profile. I have created a bunch of connectors and accessories (such as hooks) that go well with the multiboard: https://makerworld.com/en/@dmgerman

FAQ

  1. Can I use only one type of tile? The reason for two types is to avoid overhangs. Otherwise each panel would have to have 2 edges with overhangs. The tolerances are such that any imperfection in the overhangs makes it hard to screw them together (it is possible, but I had to spend some time filing the defects).
  2. Threads don't match perfectly. Make sure a) the panels are properly aligned and there is no debris between the panels; b) run the bolt through the threads before you connect them to make sure they are clear.
  3. Is there any difference between the two types of panels? The threads are aligned differently. Other than that, they are identical.
  4. How do I distinguish top from bottom panels? The bottom panels have, in one side, all the diamonds slightly cut-off.

Acknowledgements

A big thank you to HandsOnKatie and Mo for their suggestions for improvement.

Changelog

 

March 22, 2025. Tiles now have all complete internal overlapping diamonds.

License

The boards are a remix of the original multiboard panel. Thus the multiboard licence applies: https://www.multiboard.io/license

 

The headless bolts were reversed engineered and are licensed under Creative Commons (4.0 International License)
Attribution-ShareAlike

License:

Standard Digital File License

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