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X1C Switch & Wire Hiders, Clean look for switches 3D Printer File Image 1
X1C Switch & Wire Hiders, Clean look for switches 3D Printer File Image 2
X1C Switch & Wire Hiders, Clean look for switches 3D Printer File Image 3
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X1C Switch & Wire Hiders, Clean look for switches 3D Printer File Image 5
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X1C Switch & Wire Hiders, Clean look for switches 3D Printer File Image 7
X1C Switch & Wire Hiders, Clean look for switches 3D Printer File Image 8
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X1C Switch & Wire Hiders, Clean look for switches 3D Printer File Image 10
X1C Switch & Wire Hiders, Clean look for switches 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
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X1C Switch & Wire Hiders, Clean look for switches 3D Printer File Thumbnail 10

X1C Switch & Wire Hiders, Clean look for switches

FunkyNuggets avatarFunkyNuggets

December 29, 2024

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Description

Thanks to the creator of this model in the link below.  I printed this first to allow the top glass to slide open and the mounted the LED strips. https://makerworld.com/en/models/798702#profileId-738283
After printing and installing this, It gave me the inspiration to design my own model to control the LED strips.  
I know the LEDs can mess with the Lidar, so they don't stay on.  They are connected to an external power source and get used when I want to check on a print or maintenance the machine.

( in the photos and everything I posted, I used their riser as well, if you were curious where they came from: https://makerworld.com/en/models/836437#profileId-781797 

 

 

UPDATE:  I moved the “Switch Labels” further away from the switches.  My finger kept hitting it. so this will give it more clearance.  New STL's are labeled with V2

 

 

Finally, the description, haha.

These series of models allows you to very neatly run wires to power switches.  I tried to keep the channels tidy, I didn't want to make them too big, seems it would kind of defeat the point of it.  I was able to comfortably run 6 wires that were 20-22awg.  

I Printed everything in PETG-CF to match my previous riser prints.  

Supports are only needed in one place when printed in the orientation in which they are downloaded.  I have included a photo to show where it will be needed.  Photos also show the build plate layout I used.

The switches I used I purchased from Amazon.  I was going to buy 3 from Home Depot but noticed it was roughly $5 a switch, compared to the $6-$7 for 12 of them on Amazon.  This is the link to the switches I used: https://a.co/d/3xS5kWv

I have three switches to control the main power to the LED strips and to also control the warmth.  These LED strips have a separate LEDs for each 3000k and a 6000k module.  They came with a controller, but I am using it on a different project, so that's why I am using these switches.  1 switch for the main power, 1 for the 3000K LEDs, and 1 switch for the 6000K. Link: https://a.co/d/8VGjATM

I used VHB tape on the bottom of the “Switch Housing” to mount it to the machine. Make sure to mount the Wire Channels and Wire Channel Mounts before VHB taping the Switch Housing down, there is a notch in the “Wire Channel_Front” that goes inside the "Switch Housing" Kind of hard to get that notch in there after you tape down the Switch Housing, lol.

Obviously, this won't work for everyone, so I made sure to include two steps file for the Switch Labels and the Switch Housing.  This way, you can use your own diameter switches, 1, 2, or 3 holes, and label them however you want.  

There is also Insert Clamps and Wire Channel Mounts.  You only need 7 of the Insert Clamps, but where the Front and Rear Wire Channels meet, there is a gap and they don't like to line up.  That's why I put “Print 8” in the file name.  I printed the 8th to put over this gap and then they line up perfectly.  You can also just use another Wire Channel Mount, but that is up to you. Reference the photos I included for more info on where to use the Clamps, Mounts, and where to put the 8th clamp.

 

Happy Projecting !   ( Let me know if I got anything wrong, haha )

License:

BY-NC

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