Darth Vader Lightsaber

2024 11 07 UPDATE: LOL: I just realized that of all the pictures of the actual print, except for the ones on the yellow cloth, I have the middle ring rotated 180 degrees.  Sorry, the switch should be opposite side of belt hook.  It is easily rotated to whatever side you want.

2024 09 08 UPDATE: You will get better prints if you use tree support, or normal if you prefer, for the silver pieces that have threads.

This is a case of too many options, and I couldn’t decide which I preferred.  So, you are going to get my primary and then several optional mid-section rings.  

As always, I try to reduce the need for glue to allow adjustments or easy replacements if something breaks in the future.  I couldn’t do this completely here.

Front Section:

First, in the top silver section there is a black label with two silver ‘screws’ attaching the label.  The Black label pieces can be printed with the two screws in place or print them separately.  The screws should snap into place without the need for glue.  If they are loose, then glue them.  Lay it aside to dry while you assemble the top section.

Insert the two black inner front pieces into the Silver Front piece.  This should be a slightly tight fit but rotating the two inner pieces should help.  Once lined up then insert the Black Label.  This will finish the alignment and secure the pieces. 

Now align the Silver front (with inner pieces and Black label) into the Black Front Ring Collar. Add the Black Top part of the Front Collar along with the Black Nose.  These will not be secure until you add the Black back plug and the silver plugs (Silver Front Plug and Silver Top Plug). You will likely need a spot of glue in the holes for these plugs.  This almost completes the front section of the lightsaber. You can insert the Silver Emitter into the Black Nose at any time.  I suggest adding a spot of glue on the inside of the Black Nose to secure the Emitter.  It will unlikely ever come out but may be a little loose.  Additionally, you can insert the Silver D-Ring under the Silver Front screw at any time, but make sure this is after any glue used to secure the Front plug is completely dry.

Bottom Section.: 

Take the Silver Aft End and insert the six black handle ribs.  Sorry, these will need to be glued to secure. Note the numbers of the rib parts do not mean much – they were originally numbered to coincide with the clock positions, but they are all identical.  Now attach the Silver Knurled end by screwing it onto the Silver Aft End. No glue needed.  Finally add the Silver Middle to the assembly by screwing it into the Silver Aft End. 

This finishes the top and bottom sections. Next is to assemble the Middle ring parts.  This is where you have options.

Middle Ring parts: 

I researched several different versions of Darth Vader’s lightsaber and could not decide which I preferred so I am including several versions, and I will let you decide which middle ring to install.  The good news is I designed them to be tight enough and adjustable that you can switch them out later if you change your mind.  Each option uses 3mm screws to secure the switch button assembly on top and it secures the middle ring to the top and bottom sections. I originally wanted to 3D print the screws and nuts which I modeled as M3 size.  However, during assembly, while tightening the nut, the screw shaft couldn’t take the stress and would occasionally sheer off.  So, while I am including the 3D print for the screws and nuts, I would recommend having some M3x25 screws with their matching nuts on order.  If you do print your screws and nuts, then I recommend a layer height no greater than 0.1mm.  You will decide which screw heads you prefer. With this design there is no glue required to secure the Middle Ring to the Front and Aft sections.

Versions of the Middle Ring and switch:

Originally, the height of the switch assembly was set.  But later I wondered if it would look better with a shorter version.  This was the start of my many decisions I couldn’t make.

Switch with buttons and leads.  I provide tall and short switch versions. These provide the Silver Switch with buttons on top attached to leads that go down to the light saber.  The buttons, with leads, (printed separately) will fit loosely into the Silver Switch.  This reduces the chance of breaking the leads while trying to insert into the switch. So, add a small amount of glue around the holes in the Silver Switch and then insert the leads into the switch.  This will secure the buttons onto the switch.  Let dry completely before assembling into the Middle Ring.  Once completely dry, slide the switch inside the Black Middle Ring.  You can then add the side panels to secure both the switch and the ring to the front and back sections.

Switch with buttons only. The switch buttons I describe above have ‘normal’ flat heads.  I also included an optional switch with round heads as part of the switch.  The ‘normal’ heads can be printed with the threads up with no problem, but rounded heads don’t print so good so they must be printed attached to the switch. 

For the final decision for the Middle Ring assembly, you will need to decide if you want blank side panels or add the power lever. If you want the power lever, then it is assembled in three pieces.  The lever is attached to the lever base with a connecting rod.  These are tight fitting so they will not move freely.  The lever base is inserted in the side panel, and you should not need glue.  I would suggest not using glue unless it falls out.  I designed the tolerance to be tight. I would also not recommend using glue between the lever and the connecting rod – I tried this several ways and the glue always ended up gluing the lever and lever base together. But, whether you use the blank panels or the lever, you will use a M3 screw and nut to secure the switch and eventually tighten the ring.  If you use the switch with button leads, then you will place the M3x25 screw between the third and fourth buttons with no contact.  Don’t tighten the screw just yet.

Once your Middle Ring decisions are completed and assembled then slide the Middle Ring onto the front section and screw the back section through the Middle Ring onto the front section. You will want to make sure the distance between the edge of the Middle Ring and the Black Label on the front section is at least 5mm to allow the 5mm front support to fit between the two.   The last thing to do, before tightening the Middle Screw is to make sure everything aligns up.  Tighten the Middle Ring screw finger tight and you are finished.

Next, assemble the stand. No special instructions needed.

Please if you find errors in my uploads send me a message.  I originally planned to only have one version.