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RP2040-Tiny USB-C board mount for Guitar Hero Les Paul controller 3D Printer File Image 1
RP2040-Tiny USB-C board mount for Guitar Hero Les Paul controller 3D Printer File Image 2
RP2040-Tiny USB-C board mount for Guitar Hero Les Paul controller 3D Printer File Image 3
RP2040-Tiny USB-C board mount for Guitar Hero Les Paul controller 3D Printer File Image 4
RP2040-Tiny USB-C board mount for Guitar Hero Les Paul controller 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
RP2040-Tiny USB-C board mount for Guitar Hero Les Paul controller 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
RP2040-Tiny USB-C board mount for Guitar Hero Les Paul controller 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
RP2040-Tiny USB-C board mount for Guitar Hero Les Paul controller 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4

RP2040-Tiny USB-C board mount for Guitar Hero Les Paul controller

lexd0g avatarlexd0g

September 8, 2024

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Description

The Waveshare RP2040-Tiny boards and its clones are a pretty good option if you want to mod your Guitar Hero controller with the excellent Santroller firmware, they're fairly easy to work with and they have a separate USB-C daughterboard that connects with a ribbon cable. so it can easily be placed anywhere. This part makes it so that you can cleanly mount it to the unused RJ11 port while covering up the existing hole. I tried to make it look as stock as possible, and in my opinion it's 99% there. I used this on a Wii Les Paul controller, I think it'll work on PS3 and Xbox 360 Les Pauls but I have no clue if it works for different Guitar Hero controllers.

My recommendation is that you place the outer bezel on the build plate as pictured, that way you get a nice texture and it'll be more dimensionally accurate around the port. If you print it as imported, with the base on the build plate, it'll be easier to get the tolerances right on the board mount pegs, but the USB-C port won't be pretty and you might have to sand it a little to fit well. 
Organic tree supports should work fine, or use tree hybrid if you'd like to use adaptive layer height. Print at 0.08 or 0.12mm layer height or the pegs probably won't fit in the board's holes.

Part was designed so that you can melt the pegs with a soldering iron to hold the USB-C board in place after installing. but you should be able to just tape or glue it in place if you'd prefer that, it already holds quite strongly just with friction anyway. 

STEP files are included, in case you need to modify the tolerances or whatever. I did a little bit of an oopsie with orientating the parts, I quickly hacked around it before publishing so there's no issues whatsoever for printing since printers aren't precise enough, but ymmv for editing. I don't think it should matter much, but I plan to fix it anyway.

If this model proved useful to you, you can support my work at ko-fi.com/lexd0g, I would really appreciate it!

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike

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