Cheap & quickly disassemblable lasercut heated chamber/enclosure for MK4(S)

I created this because I wanted a cheap heated chamber that I can disassemble easily. I also wanted it to be very compact once disassembled, else if wouldn't make sense to only install when I need it.

Without further insulation it reached 40°C during printing of PLA parts, and it significantly reduces the noise and smell. I'm sure the heating performance can be improved by either layering blankets on it or adding some kind of felt or something similar to the gaps. But so far I didn't need that, and printing ASA worked like a charm.

Disclaimer:

If you download and print/laser cut just the standard files (so not the ones marked with the word SPECIAL) you won't have a way to feed filament into the chamber.
This is because I personally use a reverse bowden setup, which has the filament feed in from the bottom on the left side, that is what you can see in the pictures and the .step file.
But since most people will probably just feed the filament from the top I excluded my setup from the standard files.
→ So if you want to feed filament in from the top just add a hole in the top MDF plate to feed the filament though. You can do this by either modifying the .dxf file or just use a drill.
→ If you want to use my reverse bowden setup you will have to print/laser cut the files marked with SPECIAL. You can find more details and the files for the whole setup here. (You will also additionally need a PTFE tube that is about 60 mm long.)

Required parts list:

• rouhgly 100g of your chosen printing material
• a 407 x 340 x 5 mm acrylic plate or a similar material
• five MDF plates that are about 550 x 510 x 5 mm (see the .dxf files for exact dimensions for each of the sides) (thicker plates will work, but you will have to modify the printed parts)
• Some glue (doesn't has to be super strong, just decent)
• A laser cutter (or a fine saw and a lot of patience ;), this was designed to be laser cut)
• [SPECIAL] about 60 mm long PTFE tube

Dimensions:

• Space on the inside: 470 x 540 x 507 mm (excluding the corners and bottom reverse bowden adapter of course)
• Total volume on the outside: 500 x 563 x 512 mm
• Total volume when collapsed: 507 x 560 x 33 mm (yes only 3,3 cm in height, I put some work into it fitting together so well ^^)

How to build:

This should be quite easy if you take a look at the .step file I provided, but here some general hints:

• Depending on your result you may need to file the supported areas of your printed parts down a bit.
• Watch out that you glue in the parts on all sides the right way, they won't work upside down or if you mirror them, I named them all so it should be easy. (Some parts like ‘Front right clip’ and ‘Back right clip) are identical, but I kept them separate so it’s less confusing.)
• If you build the normal version, watch out that you will have to cut the .dxf file ‘Sides’ twice, if you build the SPECIAL version you will have to cut the ‘Sides’ file only once and additionally, you will have to cut the ‘[SPECIAL] Left side’ file.
• If you use the ‘SPECIAL Left side’, the slit in the middle isn't completely centered, so watch out that you have it the right way before gluing the parts to it.
• If you build the SPECIAL version, DO NOT glue the bottom bowden adapter in since you will have to remove it to stack the box, it should just stay there with friction, and during printing it will rest on the ground anyways.

How to use:

From stack to box:

1. Position the back in the right spot and have the cable(s) go through the hole.
2. Clip both of the sides on. (You should be able to just push them from the top and the clips should snap into place from themselves.)
3. Clip in the front. (The same should count here).
4. Put on the top.

From box to stack:

1. Disassemble the box in the reverse order in which you put it together, to unlock the clips you pull them slightly backwards (As can be seen in the picture)
2. Lay one of the sides on the floor.
3. Put the backside on top so it fits in between the clips.
4. Put the other side on top.
5. Put the front on top so that it fits in between the clips an faces upside down.
6. Put the top on top so that the corner pieces lay next to and on top of the front piece.
   (Again, as can be seen in the pictures)

General:

• To unlock the acrylic sheet in the front just slide the top part to the side and slightly angle the acrylic sheet to the forwards, then you can pull it out upwards. (to lock it do this in reverse, see the picture for more information)
• If you use the SPECIAL version you will have to pull out the adapter of the MDF board before stacking. ALSO: Be warned that getting filament through the adapter and into the reverse bowden tube on the printer can be quite tricky, I'm not completely happy with the solution myself. But once it runs it works quite well.

Notes:

• The closing mechanism on the front can be improved, I just didn't have the time yet and it works fine this way, but feel free to make remixes ^^.
• Since I doubt that the chamber will reach 60°C or more, you could print all parts out of PLA if you want. I did this for my prototype and it still holds up well.
• This pictures are of an slightly older version of the chamber, use the .step file to assemble it correctly.
• The hole for the cables is designed to fit the power cable of the MK4 and a USB cable for a raspberry Pi (which is also what you can see in the pictures)
• Yes, the printer in the picture of the 3D model is a MK3, because I couldn't find a model of the MK4 and they are quite similar.
• Here is a link to the spoolholder I used in the picture.