Teardrop - 3D Printed Leather Look Bag

After doing a video on adding textures to your 3d print I had to continue with the bag idea.

Printing this is relatively easy, you just need to have your settings tuned well to TPU and good support settings but you do need a larger printer as the longest part is 295mm. We printed it on a K1 Max and regular K1 and print speed for the TPU never went over 200mm/s, it was printed in our 3DJake TPU A95.

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You can scale this down but the leather textured will be scaled too so it will be denser and will look different than in the photo.

We used gold paint for several parts but everything else was printed in black and white filament, no other paint was used, no glossy coats, varnish or nothing like that.

We would love to see this design in various colours so go wild!

I have also included a plain textured sheet in the extras folder. With this you can shape the textured piece in any way on CAD or even just print it out, and follow a pattern design and cut it out with a scissors, this way you have you have a lot of choice on what to make, doesn't have to be a bag, anything leather look works and you also don't need to do any CAD at all, just print and cut.

PRINTING & ASSEMBLY
1. The MAIN PART can be printed in TPU and upright with supports along the lower curved parts. You can use very low infill and 2 or 3 walls.

2. Next up print the two BORDERS, they should lie flat with supports underneath the 90 degree flat part. You need two of these. They don't need to be printed in TPU, we actually used ABS because it is easy to sand. Same rules apply to the TOP. But use more walls if printing in a rigid material. 
You can glue the BORDERS to the MAIN PART, I would recommend using a flexible adhesive for this. We used epoxy which worked ok but is not the absolute best choice. The TOP was designed so it slots in perfectly and holds the BORDERS securely so if you use epoxy or CA glue the TOP will hold everything together.

3. You can now print the STRAP which is designed to be oversized so you can cut it to your own tailored length.

4. Next are the (2x) STRAP CONNECTORS, (2x) TIGHTENERS, (4x) NUTS and (2x BUTTONS). These can be printed in a rigid material, if you print the BUTTONS in FDM then you need to sand them well to get the smoothness and lustre you see in the photo - or you could just resin print them - we painted them in a gold spray paint. Same goes for the STRAP CONNECTORS and the TIGHTENERS. The STRAP CONNECTORS can be inserted into the holes in the side of the bag then use the NUTS to tighten them and hold them in place from the inside. You can glue the threads to keep the hold permanent if you want. This also goes for the BUTTONS, one secures the LID to the back of the bag (last part) and the other is simply decorative at the front of the bag. The STRAP goes through one TIGHTENER then through the bottom of one of the CONNECTORS, back up and into the same hole on the TIGHTENER for a very snug fit, this can be adjusted if you wish.

5. Next is the LID, this is the longest part. I would recommend to use paint on supports on the smooth side as it is quite thin and could distort a bit at higher speeds. When assembling, this was done last and I used a heat gun to heat form it around the bag so it has a permanent bend. One end of the LID has a thinner part, this is the hinge which allows the lid to be lifted a little easier.

THE FUTURE
We might redesign parts of this such as the glued on parts and try to improve the thinness of the materials. But we also want to experiment with real 3d printed fabric.

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