MiSTer Gaming Meta System

MGMS is basically a case that allows a very clean, integrated and elegant consolization of the Mister FPGA. It includes a front power switch and 3 front USB ports, while all the other connections are nicely tucked on the back panel. That's right, no side plugging and no "science project look" anymore, while still giving analog audio and video out and Ethernet connectivity !

It also allows full access to the LEDs and IO Board buttons, a single power barrel jack with an internal splitter. Finally, it supports an internal SATA drive, using a SATA to usb adapter. It is designed to fit on « mini » sized 3D printers such as the Prusa MINI or the Bambu A1 Mini. The absolute minimum plate size is 180x180 mm. Printing instructions and advices are included on the Printables page.

The case is currently based on an official DE10 Nano « sandwich » build, with the USB extension board under and the version 6.2 analog I/O Board on top. For now, the clone boards, both from QMTek and Taki Udon, are untested and probably incompatible without modifications. The clone systems use Digital I/O boards as standard, which have slightly moved the fan, making it incompatible with the current design. Also, they use USB power delivery, when this case is based upon a standard barrel jack connector. I’m planning to grab at least a Taki Udon kit to make the necessary adaptations, but they’re still sold out by the time I’m writing these lines. QMTek also has some interesting clone boards, and I would be interested to look into this one also in the future.

This build is pretty simple once you have sourced every part necessary. However, be warned that you will require a little bit of soldering for the power splitter and the audio jack. Also, you will have to cut and modifiy some of the extensions in order to make them fit into the case. I’ll provide both quick and detailed instructions for the build.

Note : There is no direct access to the SD Card once the case is closed. Make sure that your SD Card is at least functional before closing down the case. Network access is the preferred method for storing data after that.

Detailed build instructions are available on Instructables

Here's a few printing advices :

General advice :

The print is pretty straightforward, the only finicky part is some of the overhangs that can be a bit steep for uncalibrated printers, esecially on the cover. Although, I tried to mitigate that problem on the design side and if you follow the instructions, It usually requires no supports at all, though. The only critical thing here is to keep your bed as clean and oil free as possible : Some of the parts have very large contact area, especially on smaller printers and warping **can** be an issue. A brim could be helpful, but I almost completely eliminated the problem by simply cleaning the plate with soap and water every so often. Cranking up the bed temperature a notch (like 5°C) can also help with adhesion.

Total print duration is about 9 hours and 15 minutes on a modern machine, like my A1 Mini with a .4 mm nozzle.

The case is designed to print on any 180 * 180 mm print surface. Anything beyond that will work perfectly

I usually like to use a smooth surface for most of the prints, except the cover and the USB plate, that look nice when slightly textured. But it’s down to personal preference, so you do you !

bottom case :

This is the longest part to print, and also the easiest. No support required. Cleaning your bed prior to the print can be a good idea, since the part does cover a large portion of the surface.

Top case :

Place the part on the back side and it should print just fine

Cover :

Place the part facing down. This part can be tricky to print 100% right, but I did my best to mitigate the more complicated lines to print on FDM. No supports should be needed. In my experience, they don’t really help. What does help, though, is cleaning your bed prior to the print. If you experience difficulties with the front lines, maybe try reducing the overhang printing speed, or print outer wall lines first as it seems to help a bit with overhang quality. Orca Slicer has an option for « precise walls » that could also prove helpful

Badges, markings and accessories :

Nothing special here. Refer to the screen capture for placement. Button actuators must be printed 3 times

Light pipes :

The light pipes are optional. They have to be printed in clear material (PETG is usually recommended, but clear PLA also works). Print the part 3 times facing upside down. You can either print them in vase mode, or with 100% infill with higher layer lines (like .4mm height). In that case, If you can, use a bigger nozzle, such as .6 or .8 mm, which should provide better results