Tapo C120 Camera Wall Wart Mount 3D Printer File Image 1
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Tapo C120 Camera Wall Wart Mount 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
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Tapo C120 Camera Wall Wart Mount

MyStoopidStuff avatarMyStoopidStuff

November 5, 2024

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Description

This is a “wall wart” style mount for a Tapo C120 camera.  These cameras offer a good bang for the buck, but the stock magnetic mount seems a bit lightweight.  I needed to mount several of them outside, and felt the need for a more robust mounting setup, so I made this mount.  

I did my best to design this, and feedback is welcome, but if you make or use this, it is at your own risk.

 

I've included a 3mf with 3 plates, which uses PETG and TPU (optional) for the parts. The STL's are also included for those who want to set up their own plates. 

The TPU is used for an optional gasket, which may help keep water from entering the mount from the front, though the mount is not designed to be water resistant.  If using the TPU gasket, you will need to print the “ball” file named “TAPO-CAM_mount_v26_BALL_w_GASKET.stl”, which is on it's own plate.  I recommend using the TPU gasket, since it should avoid having as much water get into the mount.  But use your best judgement on whether or not you need the gasket.    

This was designed with some drain holes in the mount, which need to be poked out when the orientation of the mount is finalized.  These may help drain any water which makes it's way into the mount.  The camera itself has anIP66 weatherproof rating, so my hope was to just to give water a path out of the mount, so it could dry out if it gets wet.  I've not tested it really wet or icy conditions though, so feedback is welcome.  

 

Please take note of the following:

  • Make sure the USB-C cable does not get bent, twisted or pinched during the installation.  At extreme angles between the ball and mount, it may not be possible to install the USB-C cable, or it may be bent too much, if that is the case, don't use this mount, or look for an alternative position where the camera can be aimed without stressing the cable.
  • There are knock-outs on the base for drainage and the optional USB-C cable passthrough which need to be removed and cleaned up before mounting.  Make sure there are no sharp edges if using these knockouts, especially on the the USB-cable pass through (if that is used).
  • If you have a question or idea to improve this, please post it in the comments.

 

Assembly:

  1. To install the mount, first the original mount needs to be removed from the C120 camera.  That requires a T6 torx and a small Philips screwdriver.  It is also a good idea to install a microSD card  and go through the camera setup if it is new at this point, since doing so later will mean disassembly of the mount.
  2. Make sure to keep the screws.  Once the original mounting arm is removed, if using the TPU gasket version of the ball, install the gasket, and then the camera.  The gasket has three tabs which will index it into the mount (to use the gasket, the part named “TAPO-CAM_mount_v26_BALL_w_GASKET.stl” must be used as well).
  3. Align the hole in the ball with the original mounting hole where the small Philips screw was removed earlier and install the screw.  The screw will hold the camera in position.
  4. Next install the camera retainer in the ball, by screwing it in.  Do not over-tighten, it just needs to be snug.
  5. Install the ball into the cover and make sure it moves around.  You can roughly position it to where the camera should aim at this time.  
  6. Install the ball retainer in the cover by screwing it in place, but don't over tighten.  The ball should be movable by hand still.
  7. Install an M3 nut in the base  This can be done easier by installing the M3x8 screw through the hole in the base, and then threading the nut on the screw first.  Then just pull the M3x8 screw out to seat the nut (may require a pliers).  The nut should be flush with the inside edge of the base when done.  The M3x8 screw can remain threaded slightly into the nut for now.
  8. Take note of the positions of the drain holes and the USB-C cable path on the base of the mount.  If the USB-C cable must run through the base of the mount, the hole for the cable will need to be opened up first.  To do that, a side cutter and a small round file can be used to remove the necessary knock-outs on the base, before mounting.  Some of the drainage knockouts which will be at the bottom of the mount should be removed to allow water to drain.  Make sure there are no sharp edges where the USB-C cable will pass through the base of the mount.
  9. Position, and then mount the base using #8 wood screws (or other screws which will fit in your installation).  Make sure not to pinch the USB cable, and leave enough slack to connect it to the camera (but no so much that the cover will not be able to go on).  When positioning the base, take note of the position of the USB-C cable passthrough, any drainage holes, and also the notch which allows the cover to go on (the notch should be offset from the corresponding gap in the cover, so the cover can be secured).  
  10. Plug the USB-C cable into the camera if it is not already connected.  The ball may need to be adjusted to avoid pinching the USB cable.  Be sure the USB cable is not pinched or bent at an extreme angle.
  11. To install the cover (with the ball and camera pre-installed), first find the notch in the base, which is marked with a raised arrow around the edge.  This will slot into the open area on the cover.  Once it is aligned, the cover can be rotated in the track in the base and the M3x8 screw made snug to set the position.  Don't overtighten the screw.
  12.  Next, position the camera to where it needs to be aimed, and make a small mark where the M3x8 screw is located.
  13. Carefully loosen the M3x8 screw and remove the cover.  Then tighten down the ball using the threaded retainer part to set the aim of the camera to it's final position.  The USB-c cable may need to be temporarily removed to do that.  Make sure the USB-C cable is not pinched or bent at an extreme angle once it is installed with the camera aimed in the final position.  Also make sure there is not too much USB-C cable slack inside the housing, so the cable does not get pinched when the cover is replaced.
  14. With the ball tightened down, and the camera aimed, re-install the cover on the base, and align the M3x8 screw with the mark made previously.  Tighten down the M3x8 screw in the base so the cover is secure and does not rotate freely.  Do not overtighten the screw.
  15. Check the function of the camera, and adjust things if needed.

 

Other Stuff:

The STEP models are included, which has an alternate cover with additional screw holes.  I decided not to include the alternate cover with the 3mf or STL's, since I don't think it adds much to this design.  This will also be posted on my MakerWorld account.  If you remix this elsewhere, please post a comment, so I can check it out.  

If you want a simple sign to that notifies invited and uninvited guests that video surveillance is being used on the property, you can find one here:

https://www.printables.com/model/1063786-video-surveillance-sign-with-screw-or-3m-command-s

 

I used PETG to print this (and TPU for the gasket), other materials should work as well, but if using it outdoors, PLA is probably not the best choice.

If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints. 

You can find the other things I'm working on at my blog here.  You can also follow me here on Printables or MakerWorld, to see what new stuff I post.  If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:

https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff

Thanks for looking!

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Changelog:

10/22/2024: Uploaded to Printables.