Don't copy that floppy! Unless it's a CC model.
A collection of 3.5" double-density floppy disk models based on the work of Spectura and FightTheFoo. These come pre-formatted for MS-DOS.
I've added several variations of the model to cater for different printer setups and tastes.
I thought their models looked great, but they lacked details on the rear side of the floppy. Although my intention with these models were to make earrings just as the original authors, the models can be used for other things as well, such as keychains or toy props.
The models are not true to scale.
Major differences from the original / remix
- Added rear details (spindle hub and rear-side shutter)
- Separate front/rear side parts, separate hub, separate shutter (one or two parts) for easy printing
- Three different hole position variants, and one with no hole and
- One-piece versions of all variations, with and without details
Dimensions
- A fully assembled floppy has the dimensions
25 x 25 x 3 mm (~ 1 x 1 x 0.1 in) - The smallest part is the hub, which is
6 x 6 x 0.5 mm (0.23 x 0.23 x 0.02 in) - The smallest detail on the hub is
1 x 1 mm (~ 0.04 x 0.04 in)
Assembly
This sounds more complicated than it is. TLDR: print parts you want & glue together.
You do not need to print all parts included here. Just a subset.
- Decide on a hole position: A, B or C (or “no holes”) The only difference between them are the position of the hole. Type A has the same hole position as Spectura's original and FightTheFoo's remix.
- Choose a part combination to print:
- Recommended: Back base + Front base + Back shutter + Front shutter + Hub: This is the easiest print as each piece lies flat on the bed, not requiring any supports, retaining fine detail. Print each part flat on the bed (or two of each for a pair of earrings) . If you plan on having different colors / filament for the shutter and hub and lack an MMU, print those separately.
- Back base + Front base + Shutter + Hub: The same as the previous combination, but with the shutter as one piece. This may suit your needs or your printer better than separate shutter parts.
- Base + Shutter + hub: Fewer parts, but probably more difficult to print without losing details.
- Complete: Fully assembled, but difficult to print in the original scale on an FDM. It might have other uses.
- Once printed, carefully glue the parts together
- If making earrings: attach earwire or similar to the holes
- Look fabulous
Printing (FDM)
The important things when printing these parts are bed adhesion and layer height. All of these parts are small, but the spindle hub and shutter are tiny!
- All parts except for the ones that contain “both sides” in their names are meant to be printed lying flat on the bed, with the details pointing upwards
- Print with a low layer height: with a 0.10 mm layer height, the smallest part - the hub - is only 4 layers high when laid flat
- Make sure you have good bed adhesion. I didn't need any brim or glue on my heated textured steel sheet when printing these with PLA, but you know your printer and materials better than I do
- Supports and infill are pointless if the parts are printed as recommended at their original (25x25 mm) scale. If you're a madlad and want to print parts standing upright, or if you scale the model up, you're on your own
- A lower print speed may improve the print due to the small size of the parts
Included
- Blender project file containing all models including the original source files
- STL files for all parts and variations
- Original source files (both as a
.zip and as part of the blender project) - Part descriptions
- TODO: PrusaSlicer project file(s) (I was going to add my
.3mf PrusaSlicer project(s) but can't find my original files at the time of writing - this project is a few months old and it's very late in the evening!)
gammy
