Qidi Plus 4 chamber heater shell replacement

UPDATE: I have replaced the files with STEP so it's easier to remix as QIDI changed up the mounting locations and i don't have acces to this data.

Attempt this fix at your own discretion!

Only work on the heater with the power off and the power cord removed.

Using filament not suited for high temp projects leads to fire hazards, do your own research.

DO NOT USE CARBON FIBRE FILAMENTS! CF is conductive, you have to press the live AC heater into the plastic model that could lead to a potential short. 

Parts need to be printed with a Glass filled nylon or better with a minimum of 3 wall lines. Support is needed on the front shell.

Filament used: Polymaker PolyMide PA6-GF

Use gluestick or hairspray to promote adhesion, the back piece is flat and will try to warp on you on the last layers. Use a big brim to hold it down.

These have been annealed on 80C for 6 hours.

DO NOT USE CARBON FIBRE FILAMENTS! Only glass filled or high temp filaments.

Tune PWM, some heaters are way out of spec and to aggressive (fire hazard) Follow the guide.

Parts can be removed with 1 screw on top and 2 screws at the underside of the printer, the housing is partially glued in with double sided tape. A good pull should be enough.

No need to remove the side panel, everything fits between the leadscrew and linear rail.

Everything screws together with some ordinary wood screws, holes can be drilled bigger to suit what you have.

I adjusted the bottom holes to fit the standard screws but i think they are still to long, i replaced them with regular woodscrews and snipped them until it fits.

The shell hangs from the top mount, there is a 1,5 mm gap between the shell and the bottom of the print. Don't tighten these (bottom screws) or you will break something, it's just to keep it from flopping around.

You can put some double sided adhesive tape on the back like the stock situation.

Thermal chamber protection wire probe needs to be guided together with the heating element under the wire guide piece, then into the fan cavitiy so it sits under the fan (there is a void for it), and needs to hang close to the PTC heating element without touching.

I made a video on how to tune PWM so it's close to 400W, these heaters are all over the place so please do some testing using the guide! You will need a smart power plug with power read out, these can be found for cheap on your favorite shop.

Parts have been stress tested to 470W heating output, anything above 400W is unnecessary.

The guide: