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150g Antweight/ Fairyweight 4WD battlebot combat robot 3D Printer File Image 1
150g Antweight/ Fairyweight 4WD battlebot combat robot 3D Printer File Image 2
150g Antweight/ Fairyweight 4WD battlebot combat robot 3D Printer File Image 3
150g Antweight/ Fairyweight 4WD battlebot combat robot 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
150g Antweight/ Fairyweight 4WD battlebot combat robot 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
150g Antweight/ Fairyweight 4WD battlebot combat robot 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3

150g Antweight/ Fairyweight 4WD battlebot combat robot

Maximilian Mehner avatarMaximilian Mehner

September 21, 2025

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Description

I did compete with this robot in four full combat competitions so far. Attesa performed (imo) really well and was able to use the shield and the spikes effectively. The speed, combined with the grippy tires, makes driving a lot of fun. Where's the fun in big spinners when you can just bully your opponents with your forks and driving? 

I also included some WIP. The eggbeater modul didn't see a working eggbeater yet and the one-sided-shield could be ineffective. 

Fits in a 100x100x100 cube. I also upgraded the forks for 150x150. They also provide much better handling.

 

Part List/ Assembly

I printed most of the robot in ABS. But other though filaments (PLA+, ASA…) are suitable as well.

The shield/plates are made out of 0,5 mm titan. But you could also use spring steel, aluminium or just print them as well. I don't have a file for the shield. Just use cardboard to make a template that suits your needs and cut it in the desired material.

 

Hardware used:

  • 6x M3x6 screws (modulhitch)
  • 6x M3 heat inserts (chassis)
  • 2x M3x30 screws (spikes)
  • 20x ~2x5 small wood screws (top/bottom plates, shield)
  • 4x 4mm wide zipties for the motormount
  • Wheels: I used 1:24 slotcar racetires because they are grippy, light and screw to the motor shaft. Others wheels like o-ring or lego wheels work too. I recently stumbled over the 30mm Ranglebox wheels. They work really well too.

Electronics used:

  • 4x N10 1000 rpm motor (shorter and lighter then N20) and if you prefer a bit more controlled motion, use 600 rpm motors.
  • Receiver/ESC: Malenki (depending what motors you use, Nano or HV)
  • 1x simple switch
  • 2s LiPo 100-250 mah
  • Transmitter: FLYSKY FS-I6/ I also like the Radiomaster MT12

 

Update 21.09.25: 

People pointed out that because of the rather short shaft left after installing the motors, the wheels kept slipping off the shaft. I never had that problem. My best guess is that because I used ABS and other people used PLA the wheels got loose. PLA does tend to creep more then ABS. 

Well, I did a little maintenance and reworked the chassis accordingly. The motor shaft sticks out the full 9 mm now and while doing that I also tweaked the tolerances on the motor mount. Installing the motors is much easier now. Also the back of the chassis is a little beefier now. 

If you have more feedback, please tell me about it!

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

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