Alternate Terminator Arm Lamp Base and Extras

Alternate base for the Terminator arm.  I was having trouble finding the Ikea string lights (I don't think they make them anymore) and I wanted to change a few things anyway.  Below is a list of my changes.

Shape: This is a complete remake.  I wanted something that more closely matched the on-screen prop used.  I made the base MUCH taller but I also inset the lights to hide them better.  The inset base also takes up a little more vertical space from the vase lifting the arm and eliminating the dead space at the top.   I also changed the diameter of the glass vase walls.  I found my Ikea vase wasn't as consistent on the diameter or thickness.  

Lighting: Replaced the lighting with WS2812 LED pixels.  These are attached to a board running WLED.  I used https://a.co/d/996Ap6H (Actually SK6812 with the extra white LED).  These are all the standard neopixel size and I'm sure any 5050 led would work.  The square holes are designed to be a tight fit for the pixels.  It is a pain to wire up but the results are worth it.  I run a D1 mini in this DIY board https://github.com/srg74/WLED-wemos-shield.  You will also need a power jack for the hole in the back.  

Mounting Rod:  Hole diameter changed to accommodate a 3/8 rod https://a.co/d/1bupnHE The arm itself is a snug fit for a 3/8 rod but it will go with force or a little drilling.    

3 piece design: The base was designed to be printed in 3 pieces.  This is to keep from using supports.  The mid ring has a small lip on the top that will fit into the grove of the upper part.  These are glued together.  Before gluing make sure the power jack is at the back and lined up opposite with the hole for the arm.  Ignore the render! The hole for the rod goes towards the front.  The seam should almost disappear. It may be easier to press fit the LEDs from the bottom then solder them together before the parts are glued.  The bottom is attached with M3 heatset inserts and M3 screws.  There are 4 additional heatsets on the inside to mount a WLED board.

I also included the pins I used in the fingers.  The original instructions have you using nails.  I printed these on a resin printer.  I left them long enough for all of the places they need to go.  Just put them in, and cut off the extra with some snips leaving about 2mm of length for the cap to glue on.  

My model in the pictures is in primer waiting on final sanding and paint.  

Print settings.  

I designed and printed this in ABS.  There is no reason is can't be done in PLA but there might be some slight fitment issues and sanding required.  

40% infill or greater.  

Resin printer for the pins.