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Parliament hinge jig 102mm 3D Printer File Image 1
Parliament hinge jig 102mm 3D Printer File Image 2
Parliament hinge jig 102mm 3D Printer File Image 3
Parliament hinge jig 102mm 3D Printer File Image 4
Parliament hinge jig 102mm 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Parliament hinge jig 102mm 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Parliament hinge jig 102mm 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Parliament hinge jig 102mm 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4

Parliament hinge jig 102mm

Whitemaker Creative avatarWhitemaker Creative

December 27, 2024

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Description

I needed to use 102mm parliament hinges for a door in my shed. I didn't need the projection that the hinge typically provides but wanted to make sure that it's attached to the core of the door and the frame of the building.

All the jigs I could find online for mortising out hinge recesses were for “regular” hinges, so I designed my own jig to route out the main shape of the hinge. This jig was modelled specifically for Smith & Locke Satin Stainless Steel Grade 13 Fire Rated Parliament Hinges but it might also fit other hinge types (or you might just have some extra chiselling out to do). 

How to use this jig (also see photos):

  1. Mark your hinge positions
  2. Place the jig on the material - use strong double sided tape to make sure it doesn't move while you're using your router, you can also use a clamp on the bottom lip of the jig as long as it doesn't ever come in contact with the router bit. If you're looking for a projection of your door, shim the bottom lip of the jig by the projection distance, easy peasy!
  3. Use a short templating bit (top bearing flush trim bit) in your rourter on the jig without the removable supporting “rail” first to remove the bulk of the material especially around the hinge shoulders.
  4. Install the “rail” and route out the rest of the material
  5. Clean up corners with a chisel and dry fit your hinge, you may need to do a little extra bit of chiselling to get it perfect

You can print this jig in PLA (though it will survive longer in PETG) without any supports in the orientation provided, 4+ walls and around 20-30% infill. Once printed, remove the little tabs holding the rail and remove the rail – it might take a bit of persuasion to come out but it should come out eventually. The rail will have a reasonable tight fit to the rest of the body of the jig, so it stays in place while you're routing. I marked the tabs to remove in red on the render below, the rail is the lighter grey part.

Obviously, take all applicable safety precautions when working with power tools.

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

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