After my success with brad nail belt clips on the toolhead I remixed the y-belt-clamp block similarly.
The belt passes through the center of the single piece print (no heat-sets, and just two of the 5 bolts) with teeth locked then after trimming each end is folded back on itself teeth to teeth. When the tension is increased the two folded belt ends get pulled compressed through the center of the clamp. Before the end loops fully close up two 18GA brad nails (or similar) are inserted to prevent the loops from being pulled through the hole.
Biggest benefits:
- fewer pieces
- smaller printed volume can be printed 100% solid for extra strength and rigidity
- there is now a gap between this clamp and the enclosure wall for interior insulation to come down closer to the rail carriage
Printed with 100% concentric infill essentially becoming all walls to maximize strength between belt and gantry attaching bolts. Used organic supports. Printed in Polymaker Fiberon PET-CF17.
Step by step:
- fully remove tension from your belt. It can help to fully remove the tension idler for a little extra slack
- remove old hardware (if installed)
- bolt new clamp onto gantry
- feed the belts teeth interlocked into clamp hole
- pull locked belts through hole until the tension idler can barely reach the tension bolt
- MAKE SURE BELTS HAVE NOT SLIPPED OFF MOTOR AND PULLEYS BEFORE TRIMMING
- trim the belt ends so that 4 to 6 teeth are engaged when the belt end is folded back to mesh teeth-to-teeth with itself
- hold both folded ends together and pull them through the hole enough to re-thread the tensioner pulley on the tensioner
- tighten belt tension and let the folded belt ends get pulled through the hole until a small loop remains
- drop in you metal pieces (18GA brad nails) into the two folded loops
- continue tensioning
- metal should hold the loops and the belt tooth engagement should prevent the belts from pulling through.