Stedi ST3K Light Bar Mounts for Royal Enfield Himalayan

Introduction

I recently received a Stedi ST3K 7.5" light bar from my brother, who had ordered the incorrect model for his Tenere motorbike. I designed custom mounts for my 411 Royal Enfield Himalayan to fit the light bar in the space under the existing headlight and above the front mudguard.

Design and Materials

The light bar mounts clamp over the front fork tubes and utilise the original M8x40mm bolts supplied with the light bar. Additionally, eight M6x40mm (or M6x45mm Cap Screws) are used for the clamps, with four bolts per clamp. I printed two versions of the mounts shown in the pictures: an initial rough-fit prototype in white, and a final version in Lipstick Red ASA to match my fuel tank.

Assembly and Fitting

Fitting the clamps is relatively straightforward, although it can be a bit fiddly. Removing the headlight before installation makes the process much easier. 

Design Files

The clamp mounts were designed using Onshape, and the original document can be accessed and copied at:

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/8f22c567a57e4cd945738374/w/ea9495fe99a14ff2d618f179/e/b60fa0cededafb7d1d71c3ef

Feel free to modify the design as needed for your own circumstances.

Printing

• Material: ASA.  PETG would probably work just as well.  Steer clear of PLA for this one
• Layer height: 0.2mm
• Supports: None required (despite the warning in PrusaSlicer)
• Perimeters: I used 7 perimeters
• Layers: 7 top and 7 bottom layers
• Infill: 40% Cubic
• Solid Infill Threshold Area: 100mm2

Extra Materials Required

• Eight M6 x 40 bolts or Eight M6 x 45mm Cap Screws (I used 4 of each)
• Eight M6 Nylock nuts (in lieu of the standard M6 nuts) for vibration resistance
• I also used two M8 Nylock nuts on the supplied light bar bolts in lieu of the standard M8 nuts and split washers - again for vibration resistance.

Electrical

Wiring setups are a hugely personal thing and I wouldn't dare to dictate anything to anyone here - as each set up is different.

If I still had the OE halogen globe high-beam, I would have used that supply to trigger a relay to feed the light bar from a seperate feed so as to not over-draw the lighting circuit above original specs.

In my case, rather than using switches and relays, I simply powered the light bar off the high beam feed in parallel with the existing high beam.  My main high beam is an LED version that draws much less current than the OE halogen globe setup.  The Stedi light bar only draws 1.3A (say 16 Watts), which in parallel with my LED main high-beam, is less overall current than the OE halogen globe.

Update 7 May 2025

I've just returned from a 3,200 km (2,000 mile) outback trip over corrugated roads/tracks and the clamps performed perfectly - not even a hint of wear and tear.  I did however wish that I had designed them so that the light bar was mounted just a little bit lower (about 5mm) to give a bit more clearance to the main headlight.  I altered the design of the V3 clamp (now V4) with an offset mounting hole so that the bar sits a bit lower.  I also slightly reduced the size of the clamps as the V3 version is VERY chunky and the smaller size clamps are easier to fit.  The reduced size also allows more room for the wiring entry at the rear of the light bar (not such a tight fit as the V3 version).  The fixing hardware between the two versions is exactly the same.