This is pretty much the 3D build I used to complete my FlashForge DIY enclosure kit.
I used Orca Slicer 2.2.0 for the slicing and muddled my way through the free consumer version of Autodesk Fusion for the design mods. For parts I created or modified I've uploaded the STEP files so you should be able to use whatever CAD package to modify.
I used the same Orca Slicer global build parameters that Design8Studio used (0.28mm layers, 15% infill, adaptive cubic pattern, no raft or brim) and tree supports on parts that needed it. Load up the included “.3mf” project file in Orca Slicer to see all the details. By the way I noticed that I got small ripples in the bow of “Benchy” if I had “Slow down for curled perimeters” enabled, so I decided to turn that off. I think a previous version of Orca (maybe V1.9.0) had that disabled by default.
I used mostly Overture brand PETG for any of the pieces that might experience higher temps inside the enclosure or be in contact with metal around the enclosure that could get hot. All other parts were printed in Overture brand PLA. Again, load up the project file to see what parts are printed with PETG or PLA.
I used the default PETG and PLA profiles that Orca Slicer had for the AD5M but feel free to use whatever works best for you. I probably wasted several days and ½ spool of filament trying to fiddle around with PETG to see what temps, cooling, etc. worked better and finally just went with the profile that came with Orca Slicer 2.2.0. If you search for tips on printing with PETG you'll see people only having success printing with it using extruder temps from 220C to 270C, from no cooling to full cooling, only on Tuesdays when standing on left foot, etc. I think the Orca Slicer profile uses a nozzle temp of 255 and pretty much 100% cooling. On the Overture web site I think they call for nozzle temps of 230-250C and cooling on. The general consensus online though seems to be that you can make PETG stronger without cooling but you will have trouble with sagging overhangs and bridges.
This design worked pretty much flawlessly with the DIY AD5M enclosure kit from FlashForge and was very impressed by the clarity and quality of the instructions (amazingly no Chinglish!) With this remix I don't think you need anything other than what comes in the DIY kit (all the fasteners you need), filament and some CA glue for the magnets.
FlMtbSteve
