January 16, 2025
Description
This thing will take a lot of filament, a couple rolls at least. I tried to size it to Clive in-game. So while this is a lot smaller than a Buster sword, it's firmly in Big Sword territory.
Print one of everything else
Infill:
Keep infill very low for the blade segments, at most 8%, with 3 walls. This keeps them strong, but won't add a lot of torque to the sword so that you can hold it out sideways without worries.
Use high infill for everything else, at least 20%+. This will also help balance the sword better. The more weight on the handle side, the better it feels to hold.
Most of the stress is in the Blade and Guard segments connecting to the handle. The Handle Guard Insert should have the highest infill. You can go 40% or higher for this insert since it holds most of the weight between the guard and handle.
Use a brim for:
Use supports for:
You may find that these print okay without supports as the overhangs are short.
Orientation
Everything is preoriented. The 30° angle offsets the layerlines so that the structure takes force against the “grain”.
I print everything in PLA, but I do not recommend PLA+ for a sword. Its breaking point is about the same, but it will bend more and I worry that could encourage parts to pry eachother apart.
Label your parts with a marker or something as you print them to ensure easy assembly later as some are quite similar. The Blade and Guard parts must be oriented correctly with eachother. I suck at blender, so my slice wasn't quite symmetrical…
Sand your parts! This lets your adhesive properly bind and form a stronger bond!
I like CA glue, but there are other (better and more expensive) options out there.
The Shield fits into the little divot in the blade, and the Crest rests between that, and the little notch in the guard.
I'm sure you can figure out the rest, but let me know if I missed anything.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
Psinuxi
