This is a replacement for any of the four clips that hold the headband straps to the GVS Elipse OV/P100 respirator. I have model number SPR467 (the M/L) size, but these likely also fit SPR466 (the S/M size) as well as many other respirators in the Elipse series.
The GVS part number for the OEM version of these clips appears to be SPM561, which you can order from vendors for a very reasonable price, currently around $4 USD for a pack of 4 clips. If possible, I recommend buying the real OEM part and using the 3D print as stopgap until it arrives. While we are both here because one of these clips did break, GVS has surely done more testing and optimization of the longevity of their clips than I have on mine.
From the SPM561 product page, this is the list of respirators it is supposed to fit:
Elipse ABEK1P3, A2P3, ABEK1 masks:
SPR490/SPR491, SPR495/SPR496, SPR487/SPR488
Integra ABEK1P3, A2P3, ABEK1 masks:
SPR534/SPR535, SPR536/SPR537, SPR538/SPR540
Elipse NIOSH Multigas, OV/P100, P100 Multigas:
SPR481/SPR482, SPR466/SPR467, SPR484/SPR485
Integra NIOSH Multigas, OV/P100, P100 Multigas:
SPR630/SPR631, SPR553/SPR554, SPR623/SPR624
This file is intended to be printed in PETG. The model has been tuned to match the existing clips as closely as possible in look and feel while still being printable. This includes the spring action of the tongue/tab that holds the strap. In typical PLA, this tab will be too stiff and liable to snap off. ABS may work, but I have not tested it.
Print settings:
- Filament: PETG
- Nozzle: 0.4mm
- Layer Height: 0.2mm
- Perimeters: 2
- Solid Layers: 5 for top, 4 for bottom (I think these are Prusaslicer defaults)
- Infill: 90%+ (I sometimes have issues with PETG building up on my nozzle at 100%; if your printer is perfectly tuned you could go to 100% probably.)
- No supports.
How to use:
- Print the model in PETG according to the print settings.
- Wait for the model to cool to close to room temperature so you do not permanently deform the center tab while it is still soft.
- Gently push the center tab up from the bottom to pop it free if it is stuck to the rest of the part. This should not require much force.
- Remove the existing broken clip from the mask. Typically, the part that holds the strap breaks off and the little tab with the hole in it is stuck in the mask. I use the flat end of a spudger (like this one) to get beneath the tab and pop it up off the round plastic stud that is part of the mask unit. The broken piece can then be removed easily.
- Attach the new clip to the mask. Note that there is a right and a wrong orientation. The center tab should flex away from your face, and not be able to flex towards it. It might be a little firm to snap in, but you shouldn't have to gorilla it. If that is the case you may need to slightly ream out the hole that mates with the stud. An 11/64" or 4.5mm drill bit should be sufficient. 3/16" or 5mm may work in a pinch, but may be a little loose.
- Thread the strap into the new clip. The part of the strap that goes on the back of your head enters the face side of the clip, and exits through the other side (the side that is away from your face.)
- Try out the respirator. The tab starts with its grip on the strap on the stiff side, making it a little more difficult than my OEM clips are to adjust. In theory this will wear in over time, but to accelerate it you can flex the tab a little farther past the point where it will spring back to the original position, causing a permanent deformation where it does not quite return to fully flush with the rest of the clip. By overbending it carefully you can achieve whatever level of grip on the strap that feels good to you.
Disclaimer
You assume all responsibility for your health and safety when using this clip.
Do not use this design in situations where failure of the clip would endanger your health. For example, do not use it in any situation where you would not be able to hold the respirator to your face or hold your breath and immediately exit to a safe location.
sixfiveohtwo
