April 15, 2026
Description
Welcome to Revision 3 of my versatile, DIY helping hands. I reworked the CAD, allowed for more fasteners, and added new clamps. Every part changed some.
You can find an up-to-date list of SuperMod designs here: https://www.printables.com/@FlyingGyroscope/collections/2284604.
(1) Choose your fasteners. The metric version uses mostly M3 screws, and the imperial version uses mostly 4-40 screws. Do not mix metric and imperial parts. You have a few options for anchoring screws. Nuts are going to be strong and reliable while plastic threads may wear out after several uses.
(2) Print a matching base and mount.
(3) Pick a clamp and print the 3mf file. (There are no slicer settings – just parts.) I bundled parts this way to simplify getting a set of compatible parts.
(4) Finally, use a file to smooth rough spots on moving parts.
Choosing a base is straightforward. The three threaded holes are 1-4 NPT, a connector often found on flexible helping hands. Every base is hollow, so you can add filler to make a weighted base.
Clamping tweezers are the simplest option for a helping hand. Pick your favorite style of grip and print two copies for each clamp. If you wiggle and pry with enough patience, you can swap arms of the same thickness.
Parallel clamps have printed parts for either pen springs or a printed spring. There are four variations of clamp grips. Pick your favorite style and print two copies, one for the tower and one for the sliding clamp. The sliding clamp with a swivel jaw is separated into its own 3mf because the grips are a slightly different size.
The double adapter lets you use two sockets on one base. When printing the extra set of parts, be sure to mirror one top and bottom socket so that both knobs can point in opposite directions.
The bar clamp adapter lets you use fully printed quick clamps. I started with 0.5 inch bar clamps (https://www.printables.com/model/1278543-supermod-bar-clamp-light-duty) and made them more compact for better compatibility with the swivel mount.
The self-centering vise has 3 jaws and holds a maximum diameter of 3 inches (76 mm). This accessory clamp has its own page here: https://www.printables.com/model/1305550-supermod-self-centering-vise.
I include step files for some parts inside zip files. They will make customizations and modifications easier.
You can make your own springs with PETG, though ABS and Nylon also work. Do not use PLA for printed springs. You can also repurpose springs from a clicky pen. I designed for springs that are 25 mm (1 inch) long. If yours are too short then use a spacer. Scale the Z dimension to make a spacer of any height.
Grips for parallel clamps are glued into place. You can use TPU to make squishy grips. If you are soldering with your clamps, I recommend using high-temperature filaments for grips or adding some protective Kapton tape.
Alternatively, you can use grip tape or anti-skid pads for carpet, furniture, tool handles, … I used this roll of high-temperature, adhesive-backed silicone: https://www.mcmaster.com/1411N201/.
I modeled a preload into the spring-like arms, ensuring adequate clamping pressure even when they are fully closed. I made a few versions with varying wall thickness – thicker parts result in a stronger clamp. The thinnest version is perfectly fine for holding wires.
I modeled an arm with extra space to add a custom grip that is 1.6 mm thick, 15 mm long, and 12.7 mm wide. (Look for the model labeled 1.6mm_Grip.) I glued foam grips onto mine. Use concave grips for round or cylindrical objects (like multimeter probes) because they like to slip out of the clamp.
Follow the same recommendations for printed springs described above. PETG is simply the best choice. Add enough perimeters to make the arms completely solid, and be sure to use a brim (or ears) to keep thin parts from lifting off the print bed. I highly recommend a fresh coat of glue-stick or other adhesion promoter. I also recommend adding finger grips with paint-on fuzzy skin. Use the Smart fill tool on the section near the crossover point. I used 0.5 skin thickness and 0.3 point distance.
A swivel mount uses the following fasteners
in addition to
The parallel clamp uses
A swivel mount uses the following fasteners
in addition to
The parallel clamp uses
There is a contoured, printed spacer between the adjustment screw and ball. It keeps the screw from grinding against the surface of the ball, but you can get a stronger lock by skipping the spacer.
If you have them, carbon fiber filaments improve friction and grip because of the surface texture. Similarly, printing with thick layers can give parts a rougher surface. I used CF filament for the ball, spacer, knob, and bar mount. In contrast, I used non-filled filaments and smooth print beds for low friction parts that need to slide easily.
Stacking tall, thin layers can create a weak point in printed parts. However, the long stem on the ball mount has a reinforcing steel screw that provides more than enough strength. If you have trouble with melty layers in tall and thin sections, slow down layer time to match cooling capacity. I prefer adding other tall parts to print jobs to slow down layer times.
Thanks for visiting, and enjoy!
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
9
Flying Gyroscope
