CHAMELEON v1 - Modular Arcade Stick

**CHAMELEON v2.0 update now available here!

Introduction

I made this fightstick enclosure a long time ago while prototyping.  Most 3d-printed fightstick enclosures are printed horizontally and lead to sharper edges that come into contact with your wrists.  By printing the body vertically, we can avoid this issue entirely, but it requires an entirely different design philosophy. The panels can keep the horizontal print orientation because it doesn't really matter--and it allows for an element of modularity.

There are 3 different layouts: Sega 2P, Vewlix, and Leverless.  The auxiliary buttons sit in recessed holes above.  As a side note, you will need to bend the pins of the arcade buttons in order for it to fit in this enclosure.

I designed the panels for Sanwa Snap-in Buttons and the Sanwa JLF joystick.  An issue with this design is the thickness of the panel only being 4mm, which is 2.4mm too thin for the intended panel thickness of a Sanwa JLF.  So it sits a bit higher than normal, but a spacer can be easily designed to accomodate.

Future Changes

I intend to revisit this design one day.  I'll likely change the M3 screws and heatset inserts to M4.  I'll probably also change the holes on the button panels, and maybe increase it to 5mm.

Printing Suggestions

• 4 Walls / 20% Cubic Infill / No Supports
• Only tested in PLA, but other materials should work--provided they have minimal warping/shrinkage
• Designed for 220mm x 220mm x 250mm build volume
• Orient the 2 body pieces vertically in your slicer.
• Button panels should be oriented face down
• Recommend an enclosed 3d printer.  The two halves of the body will likely lift from the build plate as the filament cools.  Additionally ensure good adhesion to the build plate.

Materials Needed

• x15 M3 Heatset Inserts (+2 if using for Neutrik)
• x15 M3 Screws (+2 if using for Neutrik)
• x2 Self-tapping #4 x 3/8" Screws
• Fightstick PCB (GP2040-CE Advanced Breakout Board or Brook)
• Sanwa JLF
• x8 30mm Arcade Buttons
• x6 24mm Arcade Buttons
• x1 Neutrik NAUSB
• x1 Soldering Iron

Assembly

After everything is printed, the M3 Heatset Inserts must be installed via soldering iron.  I trust that their intended locations are rather obvious.  Recommend inserting until the last 1-2mm and using a flat metal object to push it flush with the hole.

The Right side of the body should have x4.  The left should have x11 (+2 if using for Neutrik).  The two self-tapping screws are for the horizontally placed holes which help to keep the case from bending outward.  This enclosure is surprisingly sturdy.

Join the two sides of the body with 3 M3 screws on the bottom, and the 2 self-tapping screws on the inner lip.  Install the arcade stick parts and you should be good to go!

MISC

• The .f3d project file is included, if you would like to reference the actual design file.
• DISCLAIMER: I was still pretty new at CAD when I designed this enclosure, so don't be surprised at spaghetti-code or bad practices.