Canada Pride Licence Plate Frame

Update: I added a new design for “CANADA - 1st NOT THE 51st” - files are cn51*.stl instead of cnfs*.stl for the original "CANADA IS NOT FOR SALE.

You can print this with your single colour printer. You will be printing three separate files overlapping on your print bed. The files are designed to adhere to one another and not interfere with each other. Here's how:

1. Print the files face down. They are already oriented face down in the STL.
2. Print one colour at a time as a complete print then change filament to the next colour. Its important to print them in order: white then red then black.
3. Choose the 1 piece design if your print bed is 350mm or larger. Otherwise choose the 2 piece design which works with print beds as small as 210mm wide by 200mm. Beds 400mm or larger can print the 1 piece design two at a time. I encourage you to make some for friends and family.
4. Important: if you are on a print bed as small as the smallest supported, your purge line must be along the 200mm side not along the 210mm side.
5. Your slicer might warn about needing supports. Ignore that, supports will actually ruin the print. Some of the registration marks (circles in the corners) are in mid air because they are meant to land on the registration marks from a prior colour.
6. Don't print with brim or skirt. Brims will interfere with subsequent colours, skirts are just more, unnecessary, mid-print processing to do.
7. Print with Z-Hop/Z-Lift at 0.8mm (greater is OK but unnecessary) for the second (red) and third (black) layers. This is to avoid collisions with prior layers. Technically 0.6mm is enough but I find 0.8mm safer.
8. All three colours must be perfectly aligned. They are already aligned in the STLs. But to confirm you can load all three files into the slicer and closely inspect the registration marks (corner circles). Then turn off all layers but one before slicing.
9. You should do bed mesh leveling (and quad gantry leveling if application to your printer) only before the first colour (white) but not before the other colours. If you have automatic bed mesh leveling and QGL then you must disable those for the other colours (red and black). For my Klipper printer I had to copy the START_PRINT macro, calling the copy START_PRINT_HOT and edit out the lines that did leveling.
10. You should only do cool down after the last colour (black) but not after white and red. Otherwise you risk the print popping off the bed prematurely. For my Klipper printer I had to copy the END_PRINT macro, calling the copy END_PRINT_HOT and edit out the cool down lines. For my Marlin printer, in the slicer, I just edited out the 'End G-code' lines M104 S0 and M140 S0 (which for you could instead be M109 S0 and M190 S0). UPDATE: IT'S BEEN POINTED OUT THAT IF YOU BABYSIT THE PRINTER FOR THE FIRST TWO COLORS THAT YOU COULD JUST MANUALLY SET PREHEAT AT THE END.
11. You must remove the purge line after each print unless you are really clever and have purge lines shifted for each colour so they don't interfere with each other. You absolutely must NOT remove the registration marks (circles in each corner) until all colours are printed.
12. If you make the 1 piece design, once it cools you can install it on your car. For the two piece design you will need to use the license plate itself to hold the two frame pieces together. Or maybe the mounting screws are enough? I recommend Gorilla brand two sided waterproof mounting tape. I have used the clear but I think the black tape would be even better.

I will monitor this for comments and questions. Please post photos.

I make license plate frames as a side gig. See my website plateframes.shop. You can contact me there. I make them two at a time on 400mm bed printers, in ASA for durability. Early on I made some tests in PLA and they held up surprising well in my climate (Vancouver).